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YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Musso, Rick Thompson
Page Views: 663
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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From the ground, this excellent line looks like just another Cactus Cliff-style bolted crack squeeze job. There is no doubt this line encroaches on its ultra-classic neighbor "Family Jewels". However, the climbing is surprisingly good and the rock is excellent, making it a worthy addition.

Begin with some easy scrambling past two widely spaced bolts. As the wall steepens, long cranks between large, flat edges lead to a slight bulge and a splitter crack. The great thing about this line is that you can climb the business like a crack, with bomber jamsd and fingerlocks, or you can face climb right over the crack, with cool sidepull moves, great crimps and sinker pockets. A final bulge appears above a good ledge, just below the last bolt, where a hidden hold allows easy passage.


This is immediately right of "Family Jewels", on the left end of The Vault.


10 bolts.

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By J Antin
From: Golden, CO
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I really enjoyed this line. Could use some more traffic, but the crack moves are great!
By Nat T.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 24, 2013

Loved this route, great crack to layback with a big mantle towards the top.

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