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Trying to identify a knot/bend/hitch
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Jan 7, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Ocnj
This may be a bit tricky. I was watching videos regarding trad leading/anchor building and noticed a guy using a knot with a sewn sling to wrap a flake. I do not remember the video and have searched online for images but have had no luck.

essentially, the guy tossed the sling around the flake so that it was simply hanging down in front. he then used some sort of knot/bend to snug the sling against the flake, essentially making a large master point. At one point, he held the top of the sling with one hand, pinched the spot where the knot/bend was and slid it snug pretty effortlessly before setting the knot/bend firmly.

anyone have any idea what this knot is? or anything like it?

tl;dr- I am looking for a knot to be used with a sewn runner in order to snug the sling against a slung flake/horn/boulder.

Thanks!
JRZane
Joined Dec 20, 2015
87 points
Jan 7, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di B...
This one? chockstone.org/techtips/slipkn... brenta
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 2, 2006
77 points
Jan 7, 2016
Yep, probably a slipknot. FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
284 points
Jan 7, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Ocnj
Potentially, yes. From memory, the knot I am picturing looks slightly different but honestly I'm not sure.

Is the slip knot considered the best knot for this application?
JRZane
Joined Dec 20, 2015
87 points
Jan 8, 2016
If the person hung the sling from the knob then made the knot it may be a clove

If they made the knot then hung it it may well be a slip knot

Both are easily tied one handed with practice

;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
3,068 points
Jan 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di B...
It's one of the popular ones. Another is the clove hitch.

EDIT: It's also possible to tie a slip knot in a sling that is hanging from a horn.
brenta
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 2, 2006
77 points
Jan 8, 2016
My guess is that it was a slipknot.

But I'm confused on how that could be confused for a clove hitch. If he clove hitched the horn then the sling would go around it twice which would be obvious, if he clove hitched the biner then it wouldn't cinch down on the horn as described. The only way for it to match they way the video is described is to clove hitch around a bight of the sling to make a noose around the horn. In any case, I think the slipknot would be better.
Brady3
Joined Apr 18, 2014
16 points
Jan 8, 2016
a clove hitch can be slung around loosely, tied one handed and then tightened by pulling down on a strand easily .... however trying to tie it one handed without having it prehung is much harder

its is true that one can tie a slip not with the sling hanging ... however i find there is a nasty tendency for the stitching on 60 cm slings to get caught in the knot itself

a better way IMO is to put the stiching part of the sling in yr mouth and then tie it one handed, and then put your hand with the sling over the knob ... this basically guarantees that the stiching wont end up in the knot or on the side thats hitching the knob

as to which is "better"

the slip knot takes up less sling (as the clove doubles the length around the knob) .... however if the knob/horn is not very secure, a clove resist up/out ward pull better when cinched

;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
3,068 points
Jan 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Ocnj
It def wasn't a clove. Id recognize that.

Thanks for your input.
JRZane
Joined Dec 20, 2015
87 points
Mar 17, 2016
Definitely a slip knot.

I've used them for many years to keep slings secure on chickenheads and occasionally on flakes.

Check out chockstone.org for a graphic on how to tie and use it.
Arlo F Niederer
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Mar 20, 2009
310 points


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