Truth or Lies
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This is kind of funky getting off the ground. It involves a kneebar down low - to some good stems - to a rest before the crux bulge halfway up. It is kind of run out to the finish. A long draw out the dihedral overhang helps.
- **Do not head right onto the death flake after the last bolt. It is hollow and flexes really bad. Head left and lieback - it's easy and safe.***
This route starts just left of Bite the Bullet
. It is the first route that starts in the talus.
10 draws plus 2 for the anchors.
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
There are several ways to do the crux. No matter which way you choose, clipping the bolt in the bulge is going to be tricky. If you skip that bolt, beware that the bolt below it has a nut that keeps coming loose. I tightened it down with a wrench, and it was loose by the time I returned, so I felt like clipping the bolt in the crux was a good idea, even though the clip was kind of a crux in itself.
I also noticed the big block near the top is sort of loose. It's definitely hollow, and I used it with caution. I didn't like the left lieback beta, as I pulled off a few chips of rock going that way. I think the big block is safe enough as long as you don't pull outward. I used a finger lock there, pulling straight down for balance as I worked my feet up and it seemed fine.