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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

True Penitence 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim DiNapoli, '84, Sam Lightner, Jr., '87
Page Views: 2,537
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Good stems.

Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 MORE INFO >>>


This is a stellar, burly route. I love goading young, aspiring trad climbers to get onto it. If you're in the canyon and a short, napolean-complex guy with male-pattern-baldness tries to talk you into climbing it, then it's probably me.


Just past the Virgin painting, where the canyon makes a bend to the right. This is the wide crack formed by the large egg-shaped bolder leaning against the main canyon wall.


Gear to #4 Camalot. I know it looks like #3s, but trust me!

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By m-earle
From: USA
Sep 12, 2007

Is this that steep, laser-cut corner crack? If so, I got on this thing thinking it was wide hands- I ended up getting worked trying to do do kick-throughs/ bumping handstacks up the whole thing. OW all the way. Bring a (new) #5 Camalot for the top. Hightops, pants, long sleeve shirt highly recomended. Six stars.
By Scott Beguin
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jun 1, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Awesome route!!! Bring Camalots: 1-#2 with a shoulder runner, 3-#4, 1-#5, and 1-#6. One of the best ticks anywhere.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jul 3, 2012

If this is what I think it is, then I was told, back in the '80s, I got the F.A. However, that was like '87, not '84, so if the info is right, then I am wrong. For what it's worth, I called it "Vogon Poetry".
By Devin Fin
Oct 18, 2012

Tape!!!! This thing will feast on exposed flesh.... 1 #2 2#4 2#5 that's it. Oh, an' pack a lunch because this bitch pig is steep!

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