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True Lies 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: G. Douglass, M. Shulak
Page Views: 289
Submitted By: Jeremy Noring on Jul 11, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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True Lies--Clark Aegerter on the crux

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starts at the very back of the cave, near a good size ledge. Near horizontal climbing to a set of anchors near the end of Helix

Location 

Very back-center of the cave, climbing straight out towards the mouth.

Protection 

~5 bolts to chains. Definitely will require cleaning on top rope, too steep to clean via lowering.


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By Broseph L
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 30, 2015

If anyone has any beta on this climb, please direct message me! I'm stuck. Or most likely just not strong enough.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 30, 2015

I think the beta is that its harder than 12c.
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 7, 2015

Admittedly I did this route a very, very long time ago (like, late 90s/early 2000s?), it's always been chossy, and I think it almost definitely has changed. I have no idea if it's still 12c-ish. It's always been thuggish.
By Austin-Tucker12 Tucker
From: Orem, Utah
May 1, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I just tried this route yesterday (april 30th 2016) and I am a bit skeptical as to whether this is actually 12c. The crux move at the 3rd fixed draw is quite burly. I did unlock a toe hook- heel hook bicycle thing sequence that made the move doable, but felt a bit more like 12d-ish to me. I think this climb should get climbed far more often than it does though! Its awesome big holds on horrible feet followed by a tough boulder problem to a sweet DEEP two finger pocket sequence. Get after it!
Rock Climbing Photo: Clark Aegerter pulling the crux on True Lies
Clark Aegerter pulling the crux on True Lies
By Chris Grosh
Jun 13, 2017
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Does anyone have beta on the route (name, grade, info) that shares the same start as True lies but shoots all the way out the lip of the cave past Helix?
By Jras
Sep 16, 2017

Chris, the route that breaks left from the start of true lies is called voodoo. It's a Bill Ohran route that goes at 13c. Voodoo ends at Helix chains. Tyson Marshall did do the linkup, voodoo to Helix to hexed finish. He said 13d, buts it's probably 14a. Super impressive!

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