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The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)
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True Grit T 

True Grit 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Walt Wehner and Mick Schein, 1996
Page Views: 223
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Jul 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This rout ascends black rock just to the right of some bubbly basalt knobs. The first 15 feet are the crux, then some fun moves lead out of a scoop and continue up an overhanging wall to the top.

Location 

If you are facing the Crack House, this is the fourth line in from the left which is approximately 50 feet from the beginning of the crag.

Protection 

No bolts, anchor with gear.


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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 15, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I didn't like the looks of the pro potential at the start of this route and went up an alternate start about 8 feet to the right. It's a small finger crack in a smooth corner with an awkward, height dependent move to get into the super positive finger crack. A couple more fingery moves lead to mantle on top of the big block joining the standard route about half way up.
There's a huge, loose block just right of the exit that shifted as I pulled on it. I "X"ed it with chalk. The anchor situation on this route kinda blows...lots of loose stuff up there. I'll take my drill and some hardware next time to rectify this.
By Wa3lt
Mar 21, 2009

I did the FA of this in 1996 or so with Mick Schein. Not sure if I did Jason's start or just ran it out at the beginning.

All of the routes here could really use some bolted anchors, IMO. Some of them could probably even use some protection bolts here and there.

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