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True Grit (Var.) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: K. Jameson, P. Manley, 1982
Page Views: 80
Submitted By: mountainsense on May 9, 2010

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


A recent No Star tick, True Grit, despite its appearance, offered consistently exciting and engaging climbing--an acquired taste, if you will. From a ledge located a few body lengths to the south of Sacrifice (5.10d, L. Wheeler, J. Newsome, 1980), climb a right-leaning handcrack leading to a series of thin, friable flakes. Hold your breath as you lieback the wafer-thinness to a stance from where it is possible to traverse right and into a steep gully. Surmount a short section of squeeze then climb past a few keyed-in pillars to a stance with a cordelette anchor and maillon. This one might clean up nicely with about a million more ascents.


True Grit can be found to the looker's left of the obvious, "guillotine flake" above the Sacrifice finger crack. Rap the route with a single, or continue up the Westwind Crack.


Bring medium to large Hexentrics, small to large Chouinard straight-tapered Stoppers, a #1 Forged Friend, a small Campbell nut--absolutely key for this route--and two large bongs for the flakes in the gully. Or, a standard LCC rack will do--bring lots of long slings!

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By tenesmus
Apr 15, 2017

Did this today and really liked it. If it got done more, it would clean up to a pretty good crack. Especially if someone gave it some hammer and wire brush loving it would make a huge difference. Loads and loads of hand jams and gear all over the place. Also, I must be getting old because it felt like old school 5.8. As in, some of the moves are as difficult as the crux of Satan's.

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