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Little Eiger
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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Trout
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,242
Submitted By: Drew Allan on Oct 9, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Leeanne on Trouthead.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is the fourth route to the right of the cave area/arete (Bonehead), which is located on the left (East) side of Little Eiger. The route begins at the original start to Headline, below the crack with a bolt to protect the face moves. Immediately above the first bolt is a new rust colored bolt that sends you up and right onto the Trouthead line.

We were all given the opportunity to name this route, so we did (see topo drawing). Clip the Headline first bolt, move up to the crack and clip the second bolt for Trouthead. Move up and right, away from the crack. Surmount a thin, crimpy bulge with a tricky clip at the fourth bolt. At the sixth bolt, prepare for the crux. Bulgy, sequential moves get you to easier terrain and the anchors. This new route is a previously unbolted line that is a nice addition to the wall. The new anchors on top of this section of the wall are very well done. You definitely need the topo to figure out what happened here, without it you will be lost.


7 bolts to double bolt anchor.

Photos of Trouthead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for the left side of the Little Eiger; "...
BETA PHOTO: Topo for the left side of the Little Eiger; "...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leeanne on Trouthead.
Leeanne on Trouthead.

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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 9, 2003

Awkward crux on sharp holds...
By Smithers
Oct 12, 2003

Failed the flash at the crux but didn't stop, thanks to a little motivation from my belayer. Footwork's the ticket here. Have fun...go broncos
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 11, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I'm going to play the role of up-rater because I thought this climb had some rather thin moves and warrants a 5.11 rating. It is enjoyable. To locate the route, look at the hand-sketched topo. On that topo you will see an unnamed route between "Headline" and "Eiger Sanction". This is "Trouthead".
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Jun 5, 2006

I did this climb today after doing Eiger Sanction without knowing what it was. I would say it's slightly harder than ES for whatever that's worth. Being a chicken s*it about taking falls I would probably take a small piece to place below the first bulge as a fall there would not be real pleasant. In general I would say that the grades at Little Eiger tend to be stiffer (read more accurate) than some of the other areas in Clear Creek I've climbed. All in all a fairly fun climb, worth as many stars as ES. It has a couple of nice thin moves before you get to the second bulge and the crux will keep your attention.

Ralph Kolva
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 2, 2007

FWIW, at the 6th bolt, if you go right to the jugs, it feels 10c. If you go straight along the bolts, it feels 11-. Really fun route. Thanks, Ken!
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Aug 15, 2008

Neat line. Awkward (but fun) facey start, thin bulging crux, and a cool gaston at the overhang.
By robbie s
From: littleton
Sep 24, 2012

Great climb, tricky to onsight, fell a few times on the crux trying to stay with the bolts.... After getting the redpoint, following the bolts felt like -11, going out right felt like a solid 10...with good rests available before the crux, either way that you send it....
By goingUp
From: over here
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route screams balance right from the get go!
The first bulge threw me, for being difficult to read during my onsight attempt, and then from being tired, so did the roof. However, the cruxes are well-protected, and the moves are there. Love the Eiger.
By A. Bandos
Sep 20, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I can honestly say it's the hardest 10 I've been on in CCC, and I've been climbing here for years.
By Wes F
Apr 27, 2017

This felt harder then Eiger Sanction. Some of the clips are strenuous and committing which add to the pump. Great route! Solid 10+.

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