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Trouble in Paradise 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dustin Stephens, 2014
Page Views: 364
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Oct 16, 2015

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Making a clip below the roof. October 2015.


Start off a boulder in good holds but no feet due to the undercut roof start but never fear, good crimps allow you to get established and get feet up. Crank great holds on steep rock and trend right as you head up the wall. A bulge midway serves up some cruxy moves. But it’s not over yet. Fight the pump clock on more nice pockets and edges to the anchors.


Far right side of Boneyard...almost in the Midnight Surf bowl. A metal tag marking the start is in place.


12 bolts. All the bolts below the roof have fixed chain/cable draws.

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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 18, 2015

I'd love to hear how folks are doing the start of this route to the first bolt. It felt super hard for 12a to me but maybe being 6'5" is a disadvantage here?
By Dustin Stephens
Apr 2, 2017

High heel hook and lock off
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 3, 2017

Thanks Dustin. It's a super route with a bit of everything. Kudos.

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