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Lower Peanuts
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Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
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Your Basic Lieback T 

Trouble And Strife 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: [C. Harrison & C. Lemke, 1981]
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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  • Description 

    This route is difficult to find by following the description in the guidebooks, but is obvious once you are there and see it. From the base of the [Lower] Peanuts Wall, below Your Basic Lieback and Star Wars, among others, look uphill and to your right. You will see a small tower of rock with a sharp lightning-bolt finger-crack. going up, to the right, then up again, with the crack getting wider as you climb upwards. It is a good lead or fun TR. Spots are thin and cruxy, but the route is not hard at its grade. The route is generally chalked.


    Standard rack with good nuts and small to medium TCUs at the crux.

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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 10, 2017
    By tobias Nitschke
    From: CO
    Jul 22, 2002

    This is a short, but fun and demanding lead. Four pieces of pro will get you through it, which include a small wire (3?), [a couple of] medium and a large cam (not sure exact size). I wasn't psyched about the direction of the cam placement at the crux, about 15/18 ft up, so I stuck two in (a 6&7 [Trango size])... The climb goes straight up the finger crack, then right into an open, diagonal band (where you need the large cam). (There's also a variation that follows a crack from the left into the crux). Decent feet on the right when you're pushing past the band. Once through that traverse there's plenty of space to rest, then a pair or cracks on top that are easier to negotiate. This route is a bit like a 10a boulder problem sitting on top of a highball V1... fun!
    By Shane Zentner
    From: Colorado
    Jul 23, 2002

    A #3.5 Camalot works good for protecting the band traverse; otherwise, one can climb the band unprotected and risk a swinging fall.
    By Brent Roaten
    From: Anchorage, AK
    Sep 5, 2005

    Fun linkup to Star Wars. #6 BD stopper, blue Alien, #2 Camalot, #3 Camalot for the traverse, and a #1 Camalot for the final paired cracks.
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Jun 8, 2006
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    Finally! Always wondered what this one was called. Next time I won't stick all the gear where my fingers need to go...and I'll bring a #4 cam for the diagonal band. All and all--good fun! And it DOES make for a good link-up with Star Wars, to be sure.
    By Mike Robinson
    From: Worcester, MA
    Jun 21, 2007
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    Awesome link up to Star Wars or any other climb up there. Didn't know what it was, but I am glad I did it!
    By Tombo
    From: Boulder
    Oct 16, 2011
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    I thought this climbed way harder then it looked and its grade, maybe it's because I'm short, old and fat. There isn't another 10b in the canyon that has shut me down like this one. I thought is was really technical down low with strenuous gear placements, to bomber hands if all the gas wasn't spent on the first 10 feet. Anyway, I'm going to loose 10 lbs and try again.

    Anyone know the rating if you climb in from the left as opposed to straight up?
    By Sean Wolf
    From: Denver, CO
    Jun 18, 2012
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    There is a bomber 0.75 placement back in the crack to use if you don't have the #4. The spot for the #4 seemed kinda hollow anyhow.
    By Ben Burnett
    From: Colorado
    Aug 8, 2012
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Plenty of gear on this one and the swing fall is no problem. WARNING GEAR BETA: Green Alien, red C3, red #1 C4 in initial creck, yellow #2 C4 / green #0.75 C4 at horizontal jug, blue #3 C4 past the hand jam (or other possibilities on traverse), red or yellow C4 in top cracks, optional green C4 protects the second above the moves. There's a good boulder thread for TR without going all the way up to the Star Wars ledge/tree.
    By Nathaniel Dray
    From: Fort Collins
    Oct 7, 2014
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    I would recommend pre-clipping an extendable draw onto a 0.75 cam for the traverse. Fiddling around trying to hook the cam sling deep in that crack is hard. Save some trouble and have it clipped, ready to extend.
    By Ed Krejcik
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Jun 20, 2015
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Short and very physical climb. Got on it because the Levin guidebook rates it 10b. I'd say it is definitely solid/hard 10. Not at all PG-13, gear is solid the whole way.
    By mountainhick
    From: Black Hawk, CO
    Jun 30, 2015
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    I liked this little climb! Short but full value and protects well. Good fun!
    By James Rein
    Sep 10, 2017
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    This is a really fun route. However, to put this on the same playing field as 5.10 Crack, Grandmother's Challenge, Blind Faith, or Darkness Till Dawn is joke. I would say 5.9+, and that feels generous. PG

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