REI Community
Quickie Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ascent of a Woman T,S 
Atrophied Husband S,TR 
Casual Six  T,S 
Chokin' the Chickenhead S,TR 
Luck of the Draw  S 
Manly Bulge S 
Nooner or Later  S 
One Night Stand S 
Pickup Line S,TR 
Streak of Bad Luck  S 
Trophy Wife S,TR 

Trophy Wife 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dan Hare, Rich Perch, 8/20/11
Page Views: 116
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Quickie Cliff Right. Photo courtesy of Rich Perch...

Description 

This is a line between Streak of Bad Luck and Chokin' the Chickenhead that is as thin as it looks...and maybe more.

The start is thin and crumbly right after you get established. (I'm told that the line was changed in the interim and is more direct.) Aim for a hole, the last good hold for a while. Fight, scratch, and kick to keep moving upward. Staying right, at times, all you seem to get is two marginal undercling pinches. Staying left slightly, you may suss out some slightly better options. Finally, on the last third of the route, you get some positive holds. Finish at the anchors.

Previously, it appears that someone may have considered equipping it with bolts, since there is at least 1 drilled hole on the route. Now it sports bolts.

Rich Perch rated this 5.10.

Location 

This is between Streak of Bad Luck and Chokin' the Chickenhead. This is the 4th bolted route from the right.

Protection 

This route now sports 5 bolts and now its own anchors. Clip 'em or TR it. Originally, this shared anchors with Streak of Bad Luck.


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