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Trogdor's Crack (pending) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 139
Submitted By: Scott Baird on Jun 6, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Trogdor's Crack

Description 

Large crack in wall starts as chimney, and gradually narrows to wide fingers at the top. Could not find any records of this being a climb, and I broke off a lot of thin sandstone along the way. Has the potential to be a classic if it can get some love. It has everything you can do with crack climbing in one route, with a quick section of committing hand jams.

Location 

Large crack in wall located 18' left of Overlord (5.10b sport)
(This is not You Got Served, that is right of Overlord)

Protection 

0.3-4 cams, small ledge down low can take gear to protect chimney without huge protection. Was able to save my #4 until the second placement. Crux hand jams takes a super solid #2. No anchors. Down climb to left and rappel from tree on ledge as one option. Was able to build gear anchor and top rope, then traverse right on a few pieces, and rap off anchors above Overlord.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Trogdor's Crack
Trogdor's Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Trogdor's Crack
Trogdor's Crack

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By Dustin Stephens
Jun 6, 2017

Definitely not an FA, poor form to retro-name and claim FA's on obvious lines at old crags. redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/...
By Scott Baird
From: Hagerstown, MD
Jun 7, 2017

My bad. I'll be happy to update with info from the link you provided. I couldn't find any information from books at my disposal. Nor was I able to find online. Also, I was breaking off so much stuff that it was hard to imagine anyone else had climbed it. I'm not trying to steal anyone else's thunder.
By Scott Baird
From: Hagerstown, MD
Jun 7, 2017

Actually, this climb is not You Got Served, but from the comments, it definitely sounds like this line has been climbed before. I'll see what I can do to get info from anyone who may know.

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