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Routes in Phantasia
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Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Creature Feature S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Le Petite Bazaar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Dutch Boy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Over the Flies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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St. Alfonso's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,385 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Baird on Jun 6, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Large crack in wall starts as chimney, and gradually narrows to wide fingers at the top. Could not find any records of this being a climb, and I broke off a lot of thin sandstone along the way. Has the potential to be a classic if it can get some love. It has everything you can do with crack climbing in one route, with a quick section of committing hand jams.
Location
Large crack in wall located 18' left of Overlord (5.10b sport)
(This is not You Got Served, that is right of Overlord)
(This is not You Got Served, that is right of Overlord)
Protection
0.3-4 cams, small ledge down low can take gear to protect chimney without huge protection. Was able to save my #4 until the second placement. Crux hand jams takes a super solid #2. No anchors. Down climb to left and rappel from tree on ledge as one option. Was able to build gear anchor and top rope, then traverse right on a few pieces, and rap off anchors above Overlord.
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