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Triton Tower 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 360', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Spiewak
Page Views: 8,744
Submitted By: PDF on Jun 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Fall on 5.11 pitch of Triton Tower

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Climb that climbs the obvious tower of the left wall. The first pitch is 5.8 and goes to the base of the big roof. The second pitch goes out the roof to the right via bolts (10d). The third pitch goes up and left up the Triton Tower (11a). The Third pitch has a very short crux which is well protected.



Photos of Triton Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the tower
Top of the tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred Maki leading P3 of Triton Tower.
Fred Maki leading P3 of Triton Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: On second Pitch of Triton Tower
On second Pitch of Triton Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: No monkey business
No monkey business
Rock Climbing Photo: the fun traverse
the fun traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch
2nd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Triton Tower
Triton Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo taken from "Supply-Line" P-3
Photo taken from "Supply-Line" P-3
Rock Climbing Photo: May cruising up the third and final pitch.
May cruising up the third and final pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: JD savors the short second pitch traverse
JD savors the short second pitch traverse

Comments on Triton Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 4, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Traverse pitch (2) is very memorable. No difference leading or following this one, except you get to watch somebody else do it first when following. The tightest bolted pitch at the wall yet still the scariest I have been on. I guess my worry was how I would get back on the climb if I fell. Pitch 2 sets this route apart from all other routes at the wall, and is worth your while.
By tony grice
Dec 13, 2006

Fun tightly bolted sport climbing.
No goofing off on this one.
By KraigP
Nov 22, 2008

An awesome route. I loved leading the second pitch, I can't wait to do it clean next time. An awesome set of well protected and exposed pitch with nothing under you but a large drop. So much fun! A must do!
By AlexK
Mar 12, 2012

For the most part, this route is pretty easy. The hard parts last less than 30 feet in total, although this climb still gets three stars for the exposure. After all the great slab climbing, you may have a hard time transitioning to jugs with poor feet, which partially contributes to the grade.

My partner and I chose to end the first pitch at the intermediate rappel station so that the second pitch is more than just a ten foot traverse.
By Jim Kelly
Dec 22, 2013

Linked the first two pitches together. Leader had some good rope drag on the traverse but was manageable. Traverse was fun but the third pitch was money.
By Chris G.
From: Lakewood
Feb 23, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fun route. I found that the 10d traverse was far more technical than the 11a face. My girlfriend is a strong climber but found this route was harder due to her reach. Finishing up the 5.7 arete is amazing, a classic on ECM for sure.
By Ryan-G Gittins
From: San Diego
Apr 1, 2014

Another great route at ECM. From below p2 looks like a throw-away, access pitch but its really fun, if short. bouldery - jugs?, maybe for some - and maybe more technical than p3 but p3 gets the pump on. Great route.
By TactiCool
From: Republic Of Korea
Jul 8, 2015

I followed through the 11a pitch and thought the traverse (10d pitch) was tougher. I led the 10d pitch. So foreign to climb these multi-pitch routes with such little gear hanging from my harness.
By psycoticpilgrim
Mar 14, 2016

Climbed after a day of rain. First pitch and the routes crux moves under the roof were wet and slippery, which made both seem more challenging than they should have been.
We cut the first pitch short because we weren't sure there were anchors directly under the base of the roof. There are. Keep climbing until you get to the roof, or manage the short but serious rope drag on pitch 2. 12-13 are all you'll need.

Pitch 2 is fun and challenging, but too short--maybe 10 feet--to warrant all the fuss of previous comments.

Pitch 3 is the real beauty of this route. We climbed straight up from the first set of anchors on the face and beyond a couple challenging moves around bolt 2, we felt the third pitch was closer to 5.8-5.9. Maybe we didn't climb the actual 5.11 pitch (there were bolts further right), but all the pictures led us to believe this was it...
Regardless of difficulty, really cool location and short cruxes made this a fun afternoon cruiser.

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