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Tripled Runners vs. Slings
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Sep 30, 2012
I was taking a look at my rack the other day and realized that a few of my slings that I usually keep over my shoulder had somehow became trad draws (tripled runners). This made me wonder:

For a long (multi-pitch) trad climb how many "Trad Draws" are you carrying? How many do you rack over your shoulder? How many of each size (shoulder length, double shoulder length, etc)? Do these numbers change on an alpine climb?

For me, I carry six tripled runners on my harness, two double-shoulder lengths over my shoulder as well as 2-3 single shoulder lengths over my shoulder. Each on of these has a singel wire gate clipped onto it.

What do you do? Why?
Jace Mullen
From Oceanside, Ca
Joined Jan 11, 2011
7 points
Sep 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit of Rainier.
I'm looking forward to the responses on this thread. I was just wondering the same thing. I converted most of my over the shoulder slings to "alpine draws" that can extend back out easily. I figured it would be easier handling. I have some with 2 biners for nuts though. Mike Belu
From Indianapolis, IN
Joined Jun 3, 2012
136 points
Sep 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Eiger summit
On trad routes I carry all alpine draws with two biners on each. I carry 12 for a climb with long pitches and 10 for a place with short pitches (like the Gunks). I find over the shoulder slings too cumbersome to get off when needed. Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Joined Sep 27, 2001
804 points
Sep 30, 2012
I'm looking forward to the response of this thread as well. Might I add, if it's an alpine route, how many cams, stoppers, and carabiners do you carry? Do folks bring tri cams on alpine routes too?

I usually put 3 spare carabiners on my left first gear loop, 4 stoppers on one biner on the 2nd left gear loop, then on my right side I usually mix it up, Sometimes if it's an alpine route, I have 4-6 more stoppers on the first gear loop on my right side, and then 3 or 4 more carabiners on the 2nd loop on this side. I usually have 3 triple runners, and then 4 more over the shoulder with no biners and 2 more with biners if its an Alpine route under 5 pitches, Anything over 5 pitches in the Alpine and I double everything I have.
Joined Jul 18, 2006
39 points
Sep 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Mean Green P2
My standard is 6 alpine draws (with strings). I then put two double length slings over the shoulder with one biner each. Sometimes I also put two other single slings over the shoulder, but this is only because I got them for free and they can be nice to have along. I wouldn't purchase single slings without making them into alpine draws, however.

The number of draws is of course adjusted from there depending on the climb.
jack s.
From Kamloops, BC
Joined Jan 11, 2011
12 points
Oct 2, 2012
I don't carry slings over my shoulder very often. On occasion I will do it on Alpine routes with rabbit runners or double lengths.

I carry all of my runners as tripled alpine draws on my harness. Anywhere from 6-14 depending on the route. I also usually have 2 double length slings bundled up on 1 biner each on my harness as well.

As far as gear goes it totally depends on the route. When alpine climbing I will usually carry mid sized cams (BD .4 - 2 or 3), nuts (5-11) and a few pins (These are my favorites: angles #1 & 2, bugaboo #3 & 5, possibly a lost arrow)

I also like to carry 2 or 3 spare wire gates for various uses such as: clipping to nuts/pins when building an anchor, hanging packs on, gloves etc.
Joined Jan 20, 2012
52 points
Oct 2, 2012
jack s. wrote:
My standard is 6 alpine draws (with strings).

You should probably reconsider the strings, assuming you mean

Also see discussion on lots of threads, like this one.
Joined Jan 29, 2009
85 points
Oct 2, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: 11th hour of the Sundial
my formula for slings is completely dependant on the route, I used to do over the shoulder but anymore I do alpine draws for single length and double length twisted on a racking biner. easier routes I'll carry 6 single and 2 double, maybe 4 if beta indicates wondering and rope drag. for harder routes at the upper end of my grade I'll go with up to 12 singles. mind you there are a lot of great answers on the thread already but just because my way works for me or someone elses works for them doesn't mean it'll work for you. get out try it a couple different ways and go with what works best for you.
as far as rack, yes I carry tricams and hex's for alpine climbs. for a typlical easier route I'll carry cams .5-1 or 2, a couple tri's nuts and hexs 9 and 10 possible 11 depending on how frisky I'm feeling. for winter where I'll have an ice tool to pound pins I'll swap some stuff for pins, and for harder climbs I'll take more cams adding some micros and possible a 3. big thing with taking tri's is knowing how to use them and your second knowing the tricks to cleaning them, if either part of that is missing you'll shoot yourself in the foot taking them....
scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Joined Feb 1, 2011
86 points
Oct 2, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Mean Green P2
MojoMonkey wrote:
You should probably reconsider the strings, assuming you mean these. Also see discussion on lots of threads, like this one.

Thanks for the heads up. I am aware of the concerns and discussions behind the use of strings. I agree that it can be an issue, but I find the benefits outweigh the risks, especially because I can spot the problem pretty easily. My primary climbing partner and I have had pretty in depth discussions regarding this.

It is good to be aware of the issue, but it doesn't warrant changing my system.
jack s.
From Kamloops, BC
Joined Jan 11, 2011
12 points
Oct 2, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging out on Royal Arches
I carry 4 normal draws and like 6 alpine draws. And 2 rabbit runners over the shoulder. Rabbit runners are awesome. Tristan B
From La Crescenta, CA
Joined Oct 1, 2009
1,509 points
Oct 2, 2012
I don't start with any over my shoulder, they are all tripled. The only time they end up over the shoulder is when cleaning one that is extended...then I do it because it is easier and faster and only takes one hand. Number carried while leading depends on the specific pitch.

Typically I'll put about 6 of them along with 4-5 regular draws and a draw that is small locking biners on each end on the rack and then make decisions about what to carry from the topo or looking up the next pitch.
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,377 points
Oct 2, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown at Golden Cliffs
A great trick I learned from a Steve House gear video was to put clip the single carabiner on your double length runner into itself and then putting it around your shoulder. This allows you to get to it under other gear, and it requires only one hand. Talks about it at 8:00
Keith Earley
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Jan 7, 2011
31 points
Oct 2, 2012
Whats the issue with the strings? Is it mis-use? I dont see what the problem is with them if they are put in place and the biner is clipped through it. Thanks for the info Ed Rhine
Joined Jan 18, 2006
2 points

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