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Animal World
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aardvark T,TR 
Animal Instinct S 
Animal Magnetism S 
Animal Riots Activist S 
Animation S 
Automatic Choke T,TR 
Balance, The T,S 
Beast Food Left S 
Beast Food Right S 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 
Blockhead S 
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 
Closer To God S 
Cold Snap T 
Crack Corner T 
Cujo Tranquilizer S 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 
Dihedral T,TR 
Evolution Revolution S 
Familiar Strangers T 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 
Fifth Destiny, The S 
Fifth World, The T,S 
Free Willie S 
Geritol Generation T,TR 
Global Gorilla S 
Gull Whackers T 
Hands of Destiny S 
Hope and Pray T,S 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 
Isn't Life Strange S 
Joint Venture S 
Krakatoa T 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 
Lazy Day S 
Lovely to See You T,S 
Melancholy Man S 
New Beginnings S 
Nice To Be Here S 
Old Dihedral T 
Piles of Trials S 
Pit Bull Prowser S 
Reversal Roof S 
Ride My See-saw S 
Split Personality S 
Strange Times T,S 
Sundog S 
Talking Out Of Turn S 
Threshold Of A Dream S 
Triple Play T 
Tuesday Afternoon S 
Unfamiliar Strangers S 
We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

Triple Play 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Marga Powell, Peter Dillon, Ron Olsen, 3/22/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,384
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 24, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Resting below the crux.

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  • Description 

    Three people on the first ascent, and three crux sections...a triple play. Varied, interesting climbing all the way up.

    Climb straight up a narrowing crack to a slot. Work up the slot and step left to a ledge. Climb a short left-facing corner and crank up right to a slab. Continue to an overhang, climb up left onto a pedestal, and surmount the overhang. Continue more easily to the anchor.

    A harder variation (10d?) turns the overhang a bit more to the right.


    Start at a hand crack between Crack Corner and Animal Riots Activist, at the left side of Animal World. These are the first routes you see when you approach the crag.


    3 or 4 cams from 1/4" to 2", then 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. We used a #2 Camalot, #1 Camalot, green Alien, and red Alien on the first ascent.

    Photos of Triple Play Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the second bolt.
    At the second bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on the far left side of Animal World.  Crac...
    BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Animal World. Crac...

    Comments on Triple Play Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 21, 2009
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    How do you rate it? Well, the climb is a step off of a 5.7 much of the way, and I could force the line right for hard moves (probably 5.11) or stem back and left for rest (far easier). By staying more or less on route as I could figure it and choosing the most interesting yet solid climbing up without getting silly eliminating holds and stems, the grade I checked in at was probably 5.9.
    By khoa
    From: Tacomarado
    Jul 9, 2009

    Very contrived.
    By Alan Butler
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 14, 2010
    rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    I led this climb and ended up stepping/reaching over to the 5.7 crack a little too often. On top rope, actually climbing the bolt line I thought it was significantly harder than Is It Ready Yet Moe, which comes in at 5.10a on this site. So, to me, it was at least 5.10c, if not slightly harder, if you stayed more to the right of the bolt line.
    By Brent Apgar
    From: Out of the Loop
    Jul 10, 2010

    Interesting, I had no idea that there are supposedly 2 distinct lines here.
    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Aug 10, 2012
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Contrived, yet fun. I thought the moves through the slot were great and the harder moves up high can be made easier by stepping easily left. So, just combine the two routes wherever it feels natural for a decent route all in all.
    By JFM
    Jul 5, 2013

    Ditto on the contrived character of the line. It's hard to resist the stems leftmost of the time. We used a #3.0, 3.5, and 00 Friend for the bottom part.
    By Greg Barnes
    Aug 2, 2015

    This felt more than contrived - it was just silly. How far do you force a move before stepping back left? I led the stemming corner and clipped all the bolts, on toprope climbing anything other than that felt contrived. Almost like this "route" shouldn't even be in the database, just call it variations on the retrobolted stemming corner.

    Still it's nice to be able to do the corner with just 4 draws...
    By slim
    Aug 3, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    IIRC, the first bolt is in a block that isn't solid also....
    By Dirk Diggler
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jan 26, 2016

    +1 for contrived.
    By Larry Shaw 1
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 14, 2017

    The bottom half was OK, but the top half naturally draws you leftward. Trying to stay right is more than contrived.

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