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Triple Direct 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rusty Baillie, Bob Godfrey, Jack Huack, Scot Baxter, Tom Taber
Page Views: 242
Submitted By: Flynn Mcfarland on Dec 7, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Jack on Crisco Way, a stout 5.8!

Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route links Green Savior Direct(P1) to Crisco Way(P2) to Green Savior(P3&4). A much more sustained wide crack outing and great link up if you want to crank hard on a classic Granite Mountain line(not recommended for a leader breaking into the grade). **Also watch out for your second on the traverse from Crisco way to the base of Green Savior, its tricky to protect and is exposed, a fall could be less than ideal for the follower.

Descent: Walk off Swamp Slabs or rapp the Coke Bottle

Location 

The beginning is just right of the standard Green Savior start and just left of Once in a Blue Moon and Witblitz Direct(10a). You scramble up through a small Ponderosa Pine and will see a finger crack going straight up from a small section of slab with a horizontal crack separating the slab and finger crack, this is the start. This will get you to the same belay as if you did the regular Green Savior start and line you up for Crisco Way.

Protection 

Two #4's will be comfortable, standard GMT rack otherwise. You can also look at Green Savior for other protection options.


Photos of Triple Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up P3 - not as burly as P2, but still a goo...
Coming up P3 - not as burly as P2, but still a goo...
Rock Climbing Photo: For leader and follower both, don't fall on th...
For leader and follower both, don't fall on th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Green Savior Direct, start to the Triple Direct
Green Savior Direct, start to the Triple Direct
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up the last pitch -- what a relief! Walkin...
Heading up the last pitch -- what a relief! Walkin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nestor heading up P3.
Nestor heading up P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nestor through the fun stuff on p.1
Nestor through the fun stuff on p.1
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretty good sense of the route with Cisco way show...
BETA PHOTO: Pretty good sense of the route with Cisco way show...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on P3 where the Triple Direct joins Green Savio...
Me on P3 where the Triple Direct joins Green Savio...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack in the Chimney business of P4
Jack in the Chimney business of P4

Comments on Triple Direct Add Comment
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By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Nov 21, 2016

This is absolutely the way to do Green Savior! Brian and I missed the direct start last year when we did Crisco with G.S. and that stellar first pitch makes for a super 4 pitch outing. Such a compelling line and it protects very nicely -- one #4 and one #6 did just fine and if the leader of Crisco takes the #6 it makes protecting the traverse a bit better (I didn't, choosing not to have the anchor while leading the thrutch fest, but had done the traverse before and didn't think of my follower). No matter, it's airy and not difficult.