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Triple Delight 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Hirahara, 2000s
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Jan 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Starting at an arete, climb the face passed 3 distinct overhangs. The climbing is steep, but never too sustained.


Located on the face right of the central tower


10 bolts, open shuts anchor

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By Rick Shull
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Jun 25, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

The large sidepull/sloper just above the third overhang is loose and about to blow. The moves can be done without it at about the same difficulty.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The bolting on this one is confounding. The sixth bolt (I believe) is in a position such that if you blew it there, you would bounce off of a slab. Seventh bolt is quite difficult to clip as well. Moving the sixth bolt 2' higher in the overhanging dihedral would negate the bad fall potential. In addition, one of the bolts (can't recall which) is placed in such a way that the carabiner would be weighted over an edge in the event of a fall. Be solid at the grade. Very fun movement, but don't blow it up there...
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Jun 18, 2016

Mammoth Area Rock Climbs 3rd edition rated this 5.10b, but the newest 4th edition has it at 5.9. gotten much easier in btwn editions? or typo?
By BAd
Jun 21, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

No, Shawn. A typo. For taller climbers, it's not super tough for the grade, but 5.9 leaders would be quite challenged! Now that I've done it a couple of times, it feels easier, like most climbs I suppose. Onsight, this feels solid 5.10. Oh, when you climb up into that left facing corner, put a shoulder-length sling on that clip. A short draw can great BAD rope drag. There's a good hold at the top of the corner for clipping the bolt above. Such a great route!


PS: No loose holds at this time.
By Alistair Veitch
From: Mountain View, CA
1 day ago
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Re all the comments on bolt placement, I found the following:
  • Bolt 6: I put a long sling on it, as suggested. Will take others word that anything shorter would result in drag.
  • Bolt 7: Not the best placement, you have a good hold, but you're in the middle of the overhang; its a strenuous position, with bad fall potential onto the slab below if you blow the clip.
  • Bolt 8: Positioned badly. The bolt biner spine will be badly loaded over a lump in the rock if you fall. I threw an extra (longer) quickdraw on this one as backup.
  • Bolt 9: potential for the rope to be pinched over an edge here. Also somewhere you might want to think about a longer sling.

There was also a slightly loose block in there, but it's not coming out anytime soon. The climbing is excellent though, and it really isn't harder than 5.9 (just be solid at the grade).

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