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Merriam Peak
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Direct North Buttress T 
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Gargoyle T 
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Triple Cracks Project 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C1

Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C1 [details]
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,397
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Jul 11, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Photo Topo/description of the Triple Cracks.


The point of this route addition is to give some people a bit more psyche and information. All climbing was done on TR so I know it doesn't "count" for anything.

I lowered in 60+ meters from the summit ridge and was able to climb two of the three cracks. The only problem is that the sections, while sightly overlapping, would seem very hard to connect.

Link 1. From a ledge midway up the right crack, below an obvious black knob, climb the splitter crack until the angle steeps 5.10+. As the crack joggs to the right the difficulty increases quickly to the 5.11/11+ range. Once over the steep section make your way left to the middle crack.

Link 2. From the middle of steep section climb the middle crack with initial difficulties in the 5.11 range. Shortly the crack goes back to vertical and you will enjoy splitter 5.10 jamming. Occasional face holds appear to ease the sustained nature of this section. Eventually the crack runs out and you must work up various blocks and cracks to the summit ridge.

Our thought was to approach via a crack on the right side of the lower headwall. Next you would need to aid across the roofs, possibly on bolts to access the bottom section of the triple cracks.

The right crack is the best at the bottom and then the middle crack becomes climbable. Both cracks are in the 5.11 or above range in the steep section of the headwall due to their flaring nature.


The Triple Cracks are on the right side of the west face of Merriam. They are very obvious from the ground and start above a series of roofs.


Double rack from fingers to hands (#2 camalot).
Optional extra hand sized pieces.

Photos of Triple Cracks Project Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the upper half of the triple cracks
Looking up at the upper half of the triple cracks
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of the triple cracks. The first part ...
Another view of the triple cracks. The first part ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview shot of the Triple Cracks
BETA PHOTO: Overview shot of the Triple Cracks

Comments on Triple Cracks Project Add Comment
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By Jesse Bernier
From: Northern Tahoe
Jun 18, 2016

anyone have any new beta on these two "projects" listed on here. planning a trip this way and trying to get educated on this nice piece of stone
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 21, 2016


I know Dave Alfrey tried one of them. Not sure which of the triple cracks. He said it was pretty exciting and I don't think he did the whole thing free.

Probably worth bringing a bolt kit to help with some of the entry moves to get established.

Casey and I never went back for bear love. Feel free to clean, send, whatever. Just report back!!

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