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Triple Bypass 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gillett
Season: summer
Page Views: 212
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Jul 28, 2015

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Description 

With some traffic and a little cleaning, this route will be an absolute classic! It is a great mixed pitch up the North Face of the rock. Slab climbing, crack climbing, and three burly overhangs make for a challenging lead. All lead bolts and anchor bolts are in good shape and are stainless.

Location 

Start at the left edge of the North face with some 10b slab climbing past two bolts. After the second bolt, trend right along a crack that has a few plants growing out of it (nice #0.5 Camalot can be placed). Continue up the crack to a left-facing corner with gear. You will see a horizontal crack going out right just above this corner. Figure out how to travel along this horizontal crack over to a corner below the three intimidating roofs. Wild and beautiful moves get you through the roofs. Each roof has a bolt with the crux coming between roofs 1 and 2. After the roof moves, get a great rest, then head up a corner with a crack to another bolt over a bulge. Pull this, then finish with one more tricky move to the ledge and anchors. You can also do a short second pitch at 5.9 up the 25 foot slabby headwall.

We made it down from the first set of anchors with a 70m rope. A sixty may be a little short.

Protection 

6 bolts on the route with a two bolt chain anchor at top. Also, you need a rack with wires and cams up to a #1 Camalot.


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By Ross Swanson
From: Pinewood Springs
Jun 19, 2016

See my tic comment for beta at second roof. I had mega rope drag at top, due to rope weaving before traverse. Take small stoppers or micro cams.

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