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|2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
Starts off the ledge above Salty Dog, Crimson King, and Gunswinger. Belay at the left side of the ledge (the anchor for Salty Dog). The book erroneously says go right from the top of Crimson King, but this is definitely wrong.
p1: From the top of Salty Dog, head LEFT up easy terrain and clip a hidden bolt, then pull the steep buldge past a couple more bolts to an anchor at a stance. Pumpy 10c. Short. Maybe 40'
p2: Climb a FULL 35m pitch to the top of the tower. Lots of jugs and edges, and you grab the sharp fin/arete here and there. 10a. Very cool pitch. The anchors on top are kinda strange - crazy long chains.
Rapping the route can be a bit tricky. Instead it's best to do:
1) a short 40' rap from the top of the tower down to a nice anchor that's the top of the sport climb to the left of Tribute.
2) From there do a 33m rap to the big ledge.
3) Walk back to a tree and find the rap station to rap down the easy slab to the ground (25m).
Above Salty Dog Arete.
Draws. Maybe 16? Not sure.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Feb 18, 2016
First bolt on p1 of Tribute is pretty loose right now. Recommend bringing a wrench to tighten it up.