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Tribal Rite 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 29 pitches, 3000', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3+ [details]
FA: Walter Rosenthal, Tom Carter, Alan Bard October 1978
Page Views: 507
Submitted By: Robbie Brown on Mar 16, 2017

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Dustin Moore Photo

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Tribal Rite is a steep and incredible line on one of the most outrageous locations on El Cap. The continuous headwall to the right of the upper pitches of the nose gives you some of the best views and exposure El Cap has to offer. Tribal Rite has seen far fewer ascents than other routes of the same difficulty and quality giving it a very "Fresh" feel. The position, the climbing, and the amazing Bivy ledges make Tribal Rite an overlooked classic at the grade.
The route starts from the top of the boot flake. How you get up there is up to you. Many wall parties start on New Dawn spending a night on Lay lady ledge and another on el cap tower. Starting on the Then Nose is a logical choice as well, although, crowds can cramp your style. I have also heard of people starting on Grape Race and reversing the King Swing onto the route.

1) 120' C3f
I got dead ended and had do some reverse hooking. Loose rock.
2) 140' C3f
Hooks beaks and microcams. These first 2 pitches are not as high quality as the rest of the route.
3) 150' C2+f
Long rivet ladder with some missing rivets.
4) 140' C3
Penji Pitch! Hook over to the rivet ladder and hope that the rusty relics don't give out. Follow this up until a penji right that leads you to a nice 2' by 12' ledge.
5) 140' A2+ exp?
"The Carrot" rivets and heads lead you up to the hanging carrot feature. This is the most visible feature from the ground. I was told that it was expando but never really noticed.
6)160' A3
This one jumps around allot. Climb through the roofs and past some heads and beaks (A3) up a few short crack systems to a stance belay. Big loose flake on this one.
7) 120' A2
Climb the sweet corner up to a roof. Go out the roof to the left to a rivet ladder. Some of the Rivets might be gone. Penji left to right facing corner and bust a mantle onto the bivy ledge.
8) 160' A3
Climb to the top of the pedestal. A3 hooks lead you off the towering past some rivets. Climb corners and seams avoiding the Huge loose flake by going over it to the belay.
9) 150' A3+
"RURP Pitch"Move right to the beak seam. Beak that shit! My partner placed like 20 beaks.
10) 160' C2+
Climb the rivet ladder with short sections of hooking. Go waaaaay right (5.3) considering your follower. Great ledge below the last crux of reticent.
11) 160' A3
Go way left and up the less than vertical crack. Start beaking all sorts of strange holes and shapes up to a hanging belay.

At this point we were over 14 hours into our push. We managed to get way off route climbing up a blocky corner and thin flakes in a long horizontal roof. My partner brought me up and climbed another pitch straight out the diving board feature known as the Porch, home of the porch swing. My partner fell on the same move (the last move) like 5 times trying to pull the lip. When he finally pulled the move there was no anchor. This was quite clearly off route.


I can not stress enough the need for a hand drill/rivet kit on this route. Most of the rivets are terrible. I had one blow on me while i was jugging sending me for a bit of a swing. I was unable to see if the rivet sheered or pulled out so i don't know if its hook-able.

Location 

The route starts from the top of the boot flake. How you get up there is up to you. Many wall parties start on New Dawn spending a night on Lay lady ledge and another on el cap tower. Starting on the Then Nose is a logical choice as well, although, crowds can cramp your style. I have also heard of people starting on Grape Race and reversing the King Swing onto the route.

Protection 

2-3 each .33-3.5in
2 each offset Cams
2 each Hooks
12 rivet hangers
Cam Hooks
Hella Beaks
-10 large
-8 medium
-5 Small
Nuts and offset nuts
Heads, just in case one blows

Rivet kit for missing rivets


Photos of Tribal Rite Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tribal Rite in red Nose Start in light green  New ...
BETA PHOTO: Tribal Rite in red Nose Start in light green New ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dustin Moore photo
Dustin Moore photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the Boot Flake
Looking down at the Boot Flake
Rock Climbing Photo: The Carrot Tom Evans Photo
The Carrot Tom Evans Photo

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