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YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Original: DBl, VW, '93. Link-Up: JSt, EFR '14
Season: North facing
Page Views: 614
Submitted By: greg k on Jan 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Fife Diggity just after moving left to the link-up...


Fun face climbing through 8 or 9 bolts before crack/chimney system that accepts gear. Seems that most folks are mistaking this route for GAC Rulz and thus climbing rack-less. I've found a leave-it draw and biner on the uppermost bolt on 2 separate occasions w/in the last month (I too thought I was on a sport climb…). A skeleton rack would get the would-be adventurer past the surprisingly solid crack before one could traverse left to Mom's Rock's anchors if s/he didn't have a hankering for chimneys.

Jim Scott and Eric-Fazio Rhicard added a direct start and a sport link-up to Family Affair in 2014. This variation is airy and supposedly better than the original. The variation is all sport and 10-.


Bolted face be/ Mom's rock and GAC Rulz


Original: Quickdraws, small rack

Link-Up: Quickdraws

WARNING: A 70M rope barely reaches if one climbs the link-up. Be careful and tie a knot in the end of your rope.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 10, 2017
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 20, 2014

Thanks for posting Greg, was gonna post it a few years back but then I realized I couldn't remember where the anchors were. I think I ended up going right to the anchors for GAC Rulz? Also, can't remember if I brought the second up or they weren't interested in climbing it and I was able to clean it from those anchors.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 28, 2014

This route appears to have 5/16th sleeve bolts and thus they need to be replaced. I also would be careful on the upper trad section as there is a bit of dirt and gravel on the ledges.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 3, 2014

The bolts on this route have been pulled with a crowbar (this is a bad sign) and replaced with ASCA bolts and hangers.

Jimbo and I added a sport link-up that leads left away the original trad finish which went up the crack corner system. The link-up ends on Family Affair. We also did a direct start that is better than the original. Now the great bottom half can be climbed and the not so great trad finish can be avoided. The link up is easier, 10a or so and it is super airy.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 4, 2014

Pulled with a crowbar - wow those were not good bolts at all. Thanks Eric!!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 4, 2014

Just shows how a really crappy bolt can be good enough at times. Unfortunately we cannot tell this by looking at them so we can make the choice to climb past them or not.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 6, 2014

Eric, first of all, thanks for identifying this problem and so promptly fixing it. I just made a long-overdue donation to the ASCA.

I have only placed a few bolts in my life and wouldn't have been able to identify these as bad bolts. How was it that you were able to identify these as 5/16 sleeve bolts and/or bad bolts? Any tips? It sounds like there may be a lot of them around here....
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 6, 2014

Hey Charles, I wasn't certain that they were sleeve bolts, that was a guess. I have looked at and placed just about every style of bolts you can find over the years so I can tell by looking at a bolt stud if it is 5/16ths or 3/8th. I can also tell if a buttonhead is a 1/4 inch or a 5/16ths. Unfortunately I cannot tell if a bolt is a self drive, a rawl 5 piece, or a taper bolt. These can only be discerned by unscrewing them.

I am working with Erik Murdock on this problem of identifying these things.

In the meantime, If it was put up by me in the early eighties it was probably a self drill. Mid eighties were 5/16ths Buttonheads. Late eighties were 5 piece rawls which have a hex head so you cannot see the threads. After the 80s it was almost all wedge anchors which have the threaded bolt showing after the nut has been cranked down.

Call and come over I have examples of almost all these that we have removed. Perhaps I should do a little presentation.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Mar 6, 2014

Thanks for fixing this Eric, I lowered off that last bolt myself back in 2005 or so. *yikes* Donated to the ASCA last year when somebody (forgot who) was matching 100% of the donation. Glad to see it put to good use.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 19, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Updated the description to note the link-up and the 70M rope requirement. Promoted EFR's comment to a condition report upon request.
By John Steiger
Mar 24, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Suggest you author and administrator types describe the direct start/extended version as the line of Triangulate and the trad finish as the variation. That’s the line us visitors are attracted to and, despite some kitty litter up high, its length (35m), position, and warm-up capability warrant attention (whereas the trad finish looks ugly and not worthwhile – can’t believe I’m saying that). Stars and rating for the new line.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 24, 2014

Wow, Stieger types and in less than 20 minutes it has been done. Thanks John and John. This should reduce the chance of lowering off accidents.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 8, 2015

BEES BEES BEES! Got on this route today and found that the abandoned hive about half way up now has a pack of new residents and the most beautiful honeycombs. I left a leaver biner and headed for dirt as fast as possible. Such a bummer as this route with the link-up is as good as they get.
By Mike Kane
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 10, 2015

Wow that is a bummer. This is a sweet route and one of the better 10s I've done on Lemmon.
By Nick Henscheid
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 10, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

1/17 bee report: Thought the bees might be gone since we saw a lot of honeycomb on the ground and didn't see any activity through binoculars...but they're still up there, probably just hibernating. Saw a few buzzing in and out of the crack up high and didn't want to push our luck, so traversed over to the anchors on Grey Wales (easy and mostly safe).

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