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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Never Never Land T 
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On Any Monday T 
Raunchy T 
Red's Ruin T 
Sente T 
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Yenta TR 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, Ken Prestrud 1954. FFA: Art Gran, Al DeMaria, 1960.
Page Views: 1,719
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Aug 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Climb the detached blocks on their right side to a small right-facing roof. Move past the bulge on the right side and climb to the top. Beware: the pins are old and somewhat junky.


Below a left-leaning ramp, left of Never Never Land and right of Cakewalk.

Rappel from the Never Never Land anchors.


Small rack since most the upper sections including the crux are protected with pins.

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By Chris Hillios
From: Newburyport, MA
Oct 19, 2008

Direct Start: Climb the center of the huge triangle flake, then join route at the top. Note: gear is limited. Dicey 5.9, but makes for a nice sustained 5.9 overall.
By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Ouch, my first fall on direct variation. It is pg-13.
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Did the right side variation. Not sure if this is a 5.9, it's considerable easier than other 5.8s I've been on. Just make sure you move right instead of move left under the overhang. Once you get above the overhang onto the face, start traverse to the right towards Never Never Land's bolt anchor.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Apr 26, 2013

Direct start is fun climbing, but definitely very heady lead. I think an RP helped the least psychologically.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Yeah if you do the direct variation it's 5.9 PG. I have small stuff and fiddled around for a while but it was still a little sparse. It's balancy, think Three Doves.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 7, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Direct start definitely makes this a more sustained climb and it's actually good thin climbing for the first 50 feet. Our leader managed to find okay gear (think small nuts). The roof is a typical Gunks grunt.

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