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The Great Black North
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Tower of Power S 
Triage S 
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 


YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Ric Geiman
Page Views: 626
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010

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The route concludes with moderate, technical face ...


The "Slice of Bread" is a wafer-thin flake jutting several body-lengths out from the cliffline, suspended precariously in space 50 feet above the trail. A sparse series of thin pockets and sharp edges dot the underside of this flake, providing a barely-free sequence every bit as spectacular as the setting. Among Shelf's hardest lines, Triage presents a stunning departure from the area's typical steep slabs. With a business section that climbs out more than up, this route is easily the most "modern" of Shelf's hard routes, offering thoroughly gymnastic movement, and relatively enormous footholds. Despite these qualities, the route attracts few suitors, perhaps due to its obscure location or the brief window of good conditions. Then again, the deterrant could just be the bewildering crux sequence, known to have stumped several of Shelf's most accomplished climbers.

Stick clip the first bolt, then teeter precariously up the pitiful slab of exfoliating mud to reach the solid dihedral. Cruise the dihedral to a no-hands stance before the business. Traverse out into space on steadily worsening holds to a protruding spike. The baffling crux boulder problem commences; a sustained sequence of small pockets culminating in a desperate huck from an undercling. The core-intensive sequence makes breathing a real challenge, and the burly clip mid-way through may be the route's hardest single "move". From the jagged jug at the last bolt, a final cryptic puzzle guards the anchor.


Climbs the right side of the Slice of Bread, between "Torch & Twang" (L) and "Tower of Power" (R).


Stick-clip mandatory. 8 bolts to 2BA. A DMM Revolver is helpful for the 4th bolt.

Photos of Triage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing under the Slice of Bread.
Traversing under the Slice of Bread.
Rock Climbing Photo: A well-earned shake just above the crux.
A well-earned shake just above the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux sequence culminates in a powerful toss to...
The crux sequence culminates in a powerful toss to...

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