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Triage Arete 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kevin McLane, John Howe, Chris Murrell. As a sport route: Kevin McLane, Barry McLane
Page Views: 789
Submitted By: Crack Addict on Aug 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Triage Arete

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


A nice technical climb up the arete with good rests between bolts. The bolts are spaced about 15 ft apart and may feel a bit runout for some climbers.


The route climbs an obvious arete between Picket Line and Cold Comfort.
Rap from the chains with a 50m rope.


4 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor and chains at the top.

Comments on Triage Arete Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 17, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

This route should be avoided, especially as the second bolt is placed such that I'm not entirely sure the carabiner would survive a fall because it would be loaded over an edge and of course this bolt protects the crux.

The route is also missing a bolt up high- there should be 5 bolts, although to call it a sport route, there should probably be 7.

Poorly bolted, contrived climbing, and dangerous fall potential are all reasons to avoid this one. Someone really should move the second bolt about a foot to the right and replace the missing bolt up high.
By Jon Stein
From: North Vancouver, BC
Sep 5, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

So this is a super exciting arete climb that felt a bit run out and surly will keep you on your toes and in full focus. Squamish Select Rates this as a 5.9 but I felt it more of the 10a and a bit run out feely.
By Adrian Lazar
Jun 22, 2012

A bit runout between the last two bolts, but not too bad. Hand holds are great. IMO it deserves it's grading.
By SethG
Jun 3, 2013

If this were more closely bolted it would be considered a favorite 5.8. There are good holds all the way up.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jul 18, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I promise I am not being snarky by saying that this is a nice route. I still consider it 5.9. and I am generally a wimp with run-outs, seemed ok.
By Alissa Doherty
From: Boston, MA
Jun 23, 2015

While I agree with SethG that the climbing felt about 5.8 (decent holds, low angle, no strenuous moves), I also wouldn't recommend it if the grade is near the leader's limit. I felt the moves from the final bolt to the anchor were needlessly runout even before the climbing eases (although the final challenging move may be height-related, not sure). I did find this neat little arete fun so the odd bolting is a shame.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jul 21, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Those bolts sure looked closer together from the ground. Watch yourself between the third and fourth bolt - ledge-fall potential.
By Daniel Israel
From: Montreal, Quebec
Jun 15, 2017

I agree, it's a bit runout, it kept it really nice and exciting for me. Definitely didn't want to fall. My friend told me it was runout so I was a bit ready for the adventure. Cool moves though, had to do a lot of searching around.
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 3, 2017

Gear Beta:

4 quickdraws


Belayer (if lowering).
Purple Tourniquet and Grey C-Collar (if falling).

Haha was a fun route just don't fall.
By S. Saunders
Sep 12, 2017

This one definitely felt a tad spicy. My wife was belaying me (she doesn't climb), and said that SHE had a case of Sewing Machine Leg just watching me.

I agree with an earlier comment that a fall on the 2nd(?) bolt would likely load the carabiner in a way that could cause failure.

All that said, I personally found the moves fun and the climb quite engaging.

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