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Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch
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Tres Amigos T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Tres Amigos 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b WI3+ M5 R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b WI3+ M5 R [details]
FA: Stanley Vrba, Robert Griz, Winter 2013
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 477
Submitted By: Sunshine11 on Oct 6, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Officer's Wall. On the far right, Tres Amigos goes...

Description 

HELMETS ARE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!!

This is a great adventure climb! If you climb this route, please help clean it by ripping out moss and tossing loose rock. It has a chance to be a good route. Be cautious in the Spring or Fall. There is a chance of ice, and the rock will probably be wet with melt. This is a Northeast-facing wall with slab, ledges, and overhangs.

P1. Start on the right side of the bottom slab near the corner of the Diamond Wall. Scramble up the dirty slab and ledges to the first bolted anchor located near a small tree (5.5 R).

P2. Climb up and slightly to the left through more dirty slabs and ledges and then cut back to your right towards a bigger tree, girth-hitch the tree for additional protection, and make your way up to the first roof. Below this roof you will find the 2nd bolted anchor (5.6 R).

P3. Follow the obvious corner up to the next big roof. There is lots of good rock but also a fair amount of loose rock and moss (5.7).

Descent: Three 70 meter rappels will get you down. Hike up to the right. You will find a big spruce with some cord and blue webbing and a rap ring. This will give you an exciting free hanging rappel back to the first roof with the bolted anchor.

Location 

Start on the right side of the bottom slab near the corner of the Diamond Wall.

Protection 

Protection: a single rack and some stoppers will do with 8-10 runners.

Anchors: there are two bolted anchors (P1 and P2). At the top of the third pitch, you can build an anchor.

Near the top out there is a rusty, old piton.


Photos of Tres Amigos Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchors at the top of the second pitch below the f...
BETA PHOTO: Anchors at the top of the second pitch below the f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rappel from the top. Step off the edge and enjoy a...
Rappel from the top. Step off the edge and enjoy a...
Rock Climbing Photo: A closer look at pitch 3 and the fun roofs.
BETA PHOTO: A closer look at pitch 3 and the fun roofs.
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper roof. A little wet.
The upper roof. A little wet.
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchors at the top of the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Anchors at the top of the first pitch.

Comments on Tres Amigos Add Comment
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By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Oct 7, 2014

Tres Amigos is an interesting line, first climbed in the winter of 2013. Stanley's ground-up ascent left bolted belays at P1 and P2. It was climbed with 3 different partners to the finish. It can be climbed year-round on rock, ice, and/or snow. Ideal winter conditions exist in late winter when the snow that sits on ledges sets up. Frozen dirt and moss aid a bit in the route. A spicy climb with crampons and tools. The free rap from the top is great.
By Sunshine11
From: Silverthorne, CO
Oct 8, 2014

We did the rappels with a 60m rope. The first rappel from the top was a total rope stretch to reach the anchor below the roof. Then from there we couldn't make it to the next anchor, so we did an intermediate rappel off the tree you can girth-hitch on P2. That got us down to the next anchor. The last rappel got us down to some mellow ledges, and we downclimbed back to terra firma. I guess that's what happens when you go adventure climbing sometimes. A 70m rope is a good idea!
By summit climber
Jul 26, 2016

Is this different than Bombs Away Dad? It looks like it follows the same line.

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