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Awe-rete, The TR 
Called on Account of Grain TR 
Dirty Surprise T 
Eye of Horus T 
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Trembling Toes S 
Unsorted Routes:

Trembling Toes 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard Jensen & Mark Smith, April 1982
Page Views: 694
Submitted By: Bo Johnston on Feb 6, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Trembling Toes

Description 

The is a great route to climb while passing by on the Wonderland trail. For a bolted line at this grade and height, it can't easily be beat by J-Tree standards. The bolts have all been replaced (except for the first) recently to 3/8" and are spaced well. The rock is a bit loose due to lack of traffic so tred carefully. Be careful: on the last quarter of the climb, the route moves to the left... start this process early and avoid (what I did) climbing up a wonderful flake that turns evil at the end where it's thin and loose making it hard to move back to the left to clip. You'll find the crux to be the final 3 bolts. Enjoy!

Protection 

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap at the top. A 60 meter rope (or longer) is nice for the rappel.


Photos of Trembling Toes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: starting up the slab
starting up the slab
Rock Climbing Photo: "Trembling Toes". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Trembling Toes". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Trembling Toes Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Feb 6, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Well-protected and enjoyable climbing with very little to no traffic makes this a nice quick hit when heading in or out of the Wonderland. Easily rapped with a 60 meter rope as the initial apron is very low-angled and easy. Two stars out of five.
By Randy
Feb 7, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The crux section near the top is contrived as the natural line would have been to either head straight up or traverse left and up arete. Last 2 bolts are placed between these two options, forcing one onto harder ground. A fairly long and worthwhile route. Particularly when combined with Dirty Surprise, which is also quite good.
By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Feb 7, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

When replacing the bolts on this route I contemplated moving some of the bolts to better locations but ultimately decided to leave them where they were. Contrived yes, but not too unpleasant.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 8, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

One of the routes i climbed early on, cuz it was "overbolted." Crumbly rock at that time ('90).
By Drederek
Apr 9, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

plugged in a small cam and finished straight up instead of heading out to the last two bolts. A nice 5.8 if you skip the difficulties out that way.
By Brian Treanor
Jan 28, 2013

Did this today with my kids. It's worth doing once (barely). Some really junky rock here. At least it's well-protected. If you've got a helmet, give it to your belayer. My kids, at least, liked it.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 10, 2015

10a in Vogel Classic. In the purple guide 5.9 and noted as being over bolted and aid was probably used, funny. Wings of Steel.

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