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BETA PHOTO: The route.
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Mess up the opening moves on this one and you will understand the route's name. Climb up into the roof and layback a fingertips seem to get onto the face above. This is the crux and a few moves will bring you to easier rock. Continue up the easier crack above to the big ledge below the south face of the Potato Chip. The pro at the crux is a bit sparse.
This is on the left side of the buttress located below and to the southwest of the Potato Chip. The climb goes over a roof behind a big pine tree next to the rock just right of a large, dead tree. Rap west 60' from a tree on the west end of the big ledge at the top.
SR. Thin gear for the start including micro cams and Ballnuts.
Pulling the crux behind the trees.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 28, 2011
You can get a gray C4 in under the flake at the roof, then a AWESOME #0 or a #00 (if forget, but it was PERFECT) Mastercam in the crack about 2.5 feet higher over the roof before pulling onto those nasty little feet. The bulging formation below will still break your legs if you fall much after that, so make sure you have a heavy and ready belayer.