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Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Dana Seaton - stand, Mark Sprague - sit 3/15/2012
Page Views: 713
Submitted By: M Sprague on Mar 11, 2012

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Derek K working the sit down start to Treehugger


The arete under the melding tree. Stand start-V5 with your left hand on the good edge and your right around the arete on the sharp crimp flake. Use your personal beta to move up the arete and top out just left of the tree. For the Sit Down - V7, start with your left hand on the same edge, right on the low crimp or make it even harder by starting with both hands on the low flake, and move into the stand. The very low sit start is maybe a grade harder.


under the tree that is making love to the boulder.



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By Dana Seaton
Mar 12, 2012

By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 12, 2012

Good name
By Joe M.
Mar 14, 2012

Anyone send the sit yet? I sent the stand the other day with slightly different beta. Started left hand on the crimp, but right hand gaston on the left facing crimp right on the arete. Those flakes on the right side of the arete suck. I was able to stick the gaston crimp from a sit but couldn't make the next move. The sit will be a high quality problem (as is the stand). I also did a sit start to the right of the arete, had chalk on it so I assumed it had been done. Left high on flake, right on undercling, right up to a small crimp, then adjust feet then pop to the right facing jug sidepull, easy climbing to the top.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 14, 2012

Not yet. I am close. About 6-7 times I have had my hand on the hold just below the lip, but have barndoored off. I haven't seriously worked on the low sit yet as I have been trying to save my skin for the upper part. That's next though.

Re the right route, yeah, I did that. I don't have a name yet. The sit start is a sharp beastie. Any suggestion for a grade? Ultimately I would like to do it from the sit down of Treehugger, but it is a masochistic route that will probably require lots of tape so I don't slice my tips off.

Did you get on Temperance and Hroom?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 15, 2012

I got the sit today. It is hard for me to grade it. I use funky beta that taller people probably wont use. Taller people will probably just pop the left hand out to the lower hold on the left face like Dana did for the stand start, whereas I do different footwork that gets me higher. I shoot my right hand out to the sharp incut flake out right and pop my left up to the sidepull. With my right hand on the highest sidepull on the arete and left heel hooking the good starting handhold, right foot on the small crimp, I bring my right hand all the way up to the higher hold just left of the tree. I was thinking maybe V7 when I was working it, but it felt really easy when I finally got it. I'll call it a 6 for now, but am curious what the consensus will be. It did take me a bunch of tries.

Remember to give your chalk a brush before you leave folks, especially any big ticks. It was looking pretty chalk bombed when I got there.
By Joe M.
Mar 16, 2012

I didn't tick anything on Monday but I did see a climber walking in when I was leaving. I think the sit is definitely 7, especially compared to the Escoheag Arete sit.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 16, 2012

Thanks, Joe. I'll bump it up to 7 then.
By RyanCahill
Mar 19, 2012

Did the stand same as Joe. Great problem from there. Low sit is quite fingery!
By Dana Seaton
Oct 6, 2012

low sit went. nick says maybe +1.

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