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YDS: 5.14b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.14b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b [details]
FA: Mike Williams (2010)
Page Views: 2,818
Submitted By: Fred Gomez on Oct 19, 2012

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Trebuchet is a rare example of a route that is both extremely fun and very difficult. Trebuchet is currently the hardest graded route on the Endless Wall. It is bouldery, pumpy and contains technical moves that will stimulate the minds of even the most well traveled climbers.

The standard start to the route is on the left side and it involves a typical Cirque jump move straight off the deck. Race through the first couple bolts of reachy crimp moves and then throw a massive deadpoint to a jug at the 5th bolt. A cruxy cross move to a two finger pocket at the sixth bolt can be difficult if you are short. There is some unbelievable trick beta through this crux, including a back to the wall “mission impossible” sequence. If that doesn’t work try the two finger pocket “shadow match” which has the climber yanking their left hand fingers out of the pocket while simultaneously slamming their right hand fingers in. The next crux involves some downright crimping so get ready to bear down because no level of sorcery will get you through here. Fly through the remaining cerebral moves to the base of the roof to finish out the first pitch (13b/c).

Rest up at the base of the roof in a good horizontal break and get as much back as possible for the true crux. Grab a couple small crimps in the roof, maintain body tension, cut feet, and rocket your right foot up and around the roof to a 3 inch ledge. Keep your composure as you pull around to the steep headwall and then begin a series of long moves between incut holds. Traverse leftward to a mercy jug. Shake out here for as long as you want and then engage in the redpoint crux. This section can be one of the toughest spots to figure out, and can be very stressful on the go, so get that beta refined and wired. Blissful 5.10 jug hauling takes you to the anchor.

Route description by the first ascensionist:


Between Proper Soul and Graffiti. Look for fixed gear and a six foot roof.


15 bolts + anchor (typically has fixed gear)
Stick Clip the first bolt.

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By Pnelson
Jun 16, 2017

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