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Treasure of the Sierra Madre 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 7 pitches, 700', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Irby, Ramon Huerga, Ismael Garza, Ed & Tami Wright, 2002
Page Views: 10,839
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Apr 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (116)
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BETA PHOTO: The obvious pillar start for Treasure of the Sierr...

Description 

This route is consistent for the grade in Mexico The first two pitches go at 10a with the first pitch ending at the top of a distinct pillar. The third pitch goes at 10c with thin face moves to easier crack. If you jam, expect blood since this is sharp limestone!

The fourth pitch eases up at 9 and the final hard pitch follows at 10c. This fifth pitch is definitely the crux as there is a major pump factor from the previous four pitches. The business starts off the belay with thin face moves to a roof. The route eases up after surmounting the roof.

The sixth pitch goes at easy 9 and the 7th is a total choss pile with a grade of 5.7. Despite the lackluster climbing on the final pitch it is a must do - this long pitch ends at the top of the Sense of Religion wall straddling the fin. From here, you have a view of The Conundrums, La Ola and other walls to the north. Be careful not to pull off any of the large and unstable rocks on others below when finishing this pitch.

Most belays are hanging which makes for an uncomfortable day, but this route is well worth it. Due to the quality of the route, it sees a lot of ascents. I would recommend getting up early for this one to beat the crowds.

Location 

The route is located uphill on the Lower Sense of Religion and is identifiable by a large pillar.

Protection 

Being a newer Potrero route, this route is well bolted relative to others such as Jungle Mountaineering and Emilio's Posse. This route can be done easily with a 60 m rope; however, use the bolts located halfway down the last pitch if all you have is a 60 as you will have to do some down climbing if you try to go the full distance.


Photos of Treasure of the Sierra Madre Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of El Toro from the Top of Treasure!!
View of El Toro from the Top of Treasure!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Great Route!
Great Route!
Rock Climbing Photo: Treasures of the Sierra Madre 2009
Treasures of the Sierra Madre 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: Lucie on p4 (or 6? 5.9 either way) of TOSM
Lucie on p4 (or 6? 5.9 either way) of TOSM
Rock Climbing Photo: Lucie on p2 (5.10a) of TOSM.
Lucie on p2 (5.10a) of TOSM.
Rock Climbing Photo: You Know it!!
You Know it!!
Rock Climbing Photo: The approximate path of Treasure of the Sierra Mad...
BETA PHOTO: The approximate path of Treasure of the Sierra Mad...

Comments on Treasure of the Sierra Madre Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 28, 2017
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 4, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

"and the 7th is a total choss pile with a grade of 5.7. Despite the lackluster climbing on the final pitch it is a must do - this long pitch ends at the top of the Sense of Religion wall straddling the fin."

Well said and I agree. The lower pitches on this route are fantastic with some wonderful movement on good rock. It would be a four-star classic if it weren't for the final 1.5 pitches. Still, a very nice route. A 70m rope makes getting down much easier and less scary.
By M. Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 5, 2008

The first 5 pitches make for one of the best multipitch moderates at the Potrero.
By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 18, 2008

A 70 m definitely takes the sting out of the rap on the last pitch - or maybe some foresight. I managed to miss the rap station half way down and had to down climb a bit to get to the rap station at the top of the sixth pitch.
By Blake Summers
From: Park City, Utah
Dec 11, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A must do for some great moderate climbing. Final pitches are choss but worth the top out!
By adam970
Aug 8, 2010

the description says the that route is consistent with the grade in Mexico. Is the grading typically easier or harder?
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 10, 2012

Totally Worth A go!! Every Pitch is stellar and sustained and very very fun!! If you are going to link pitches do so with a 70m. Some Thoughtful beta, Don't climb it with a party of three on a hot day, ekkk!! A Must do fun stuff!!
By Shire-mon
From: Moab, UT / Boone, NC
May 31, 2012

Great fun. I agree with MIke though, dont get convinced into trudging up that thing with three people on a hot day! Still fun.
By Molly Zhu
Nov 17, 2015

We used a 60m rope and were a few ft short to reach one of the rappel anchors. We reached the two questionable bolts slightly above the anchor and left behind a carabiner to rappel.
By DrRockso
From: Red River Gorge, KY
Jan 13, 2016

What a view from the top!!
By Izzy K.
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 23, 2016

If 5.10 is the grade you're looking for, you must do this route!!! Very enjoyable climbing with not a single bad pitch. Even the run out to the top was fun -- blocky rock but pretty dang sturdy.

I don't agree with the previous comments about "choss" at the top...at least not the crumbly, low-quality stuff I think of as choss.

BEAUTIFUL SUMMIT.

It would not be enjoyable to have people rappelling off over you (or to rappel over another party on your way out). Just hit it in June like I did and you'll surely be the only climbers on it slash the whole park. ;)

The pitches are long and we did not link any.
By M HawkMan
Dec 21, 2016

Got on this today- GREAT ROUTE!!!

I highly recommend linking pitches to save time.

Link 1+2, 3+4, 5+6

And then one final push to the summit, 150ft Pitch 7.

25 draws should be fine for this. Bring alpine draws- you will need them in places.

Epic summit too!!!!
By Ben Chapman
Jan 10, 2017

Sarah (sp?) and Olivia--I have photos of you in the mist on this route from Jan 3! PM me and I'll send along! Cheers, BC
By Seth Hogan
From: Frisco, Co
Jan 28, 2017

This climb has 2 or 3 .10c moves throughout the entire climb. It is basically a sustained 5.9 so don't let the grade scare you off. Easy to link pitches and the last pitch isn't worth doing. Pancho Villa is much better if you're looking for a more sustained 10.

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