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Tread Gently 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rusty Baille, 1971 (solo)
Page Views: 1,232
Submitted By: Tavis Ricksecker on Jun 7, 2007

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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. MORE INFO >>>


Start on Pine Tree Ledge about 50' right and around the corner from Dislocation Buttress. Look for face features leading to a diagonal crack about 10' off the ledge. Crank up to this crack (engaging!) and get some gear, then follow it up and left. Then climb vertical cracks to a ledge belay. From here, locate the right facing corner/overhang above. Climb up to this and jam/lieback/undercling out the bulge and around the corner (crux.) From there its easy cracks to the top.


Standard rack to 2"

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By juggy
From: Lakewood Colorado
Nov 7, 2007

The first pitch is nicely exposed, then the crux I got all hunched over like a monkey fukin a football, then smooth sailing!!! I'm short though, but what a great climb. would love to man up for the solo!!
By BCramer
From: Prescott
Aug 11, 2008

The "...easy cracks to the top." description following the crux is little vague. After moving up right around the crux roof you find yourself in a big corner. Instead of going up the corner (boring), move back left on horizontals onto the arete above the roof you just did. Continue up the horizontals (small cams or pink tricams) staying just left of the arete to a good belay ledge. Way fun. (The currently available fold-out topo wrongly shows the route traversing way left over to Ragpicker here. You could do this, but it is not recommended. Stupid guidebook authors ;-) Consider the possibility of rope drag when protecting the roof.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Nov 21, 2016

Did this rope soloing to be near friends who were on Dislocation and had a blast. It's a fun route and has some cruxy puzzles that do need a clear head -- followed Bill's guide as best I could and just tried to stay on the most difficult crack path upward while staying right of Dislocation. A few thin finger crack sections with sketchy gear, a great fun hand crack roof (would be good warm up for Magnolia), and some fun slab sections with no gear. Did it with the gullyish first pitch (whatever it's called, it's not great, but it does add another pitch of climbing) to get to the ledge, which is a better way to get up there than hiking up and around.

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