Trashcan Rock Rock Climbing
Three-year-old Bryson Fienup climbs on Trashcan Ro...
Trashcan Rock hosts a high concentration of easier routes (5.0 - 5.6), a few moderates (5.7 - 5.9), and a few harder routes (5.10 - 5.11). None of the climbs are super-megaclassics, but it is a popular destination nonetheless. Several routes warrant an 'R' or 'X' rating, and as such there are usually quite a few topropes and the accompanying mayhem of beginner groups. Perhaps a good place to avoid on the weekends.
Descend all routes by walking down the north side.
The Quail Springs Day Use Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West Entrance of the Park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). It is about 6 miles from the West Entrance kiosk and is signed.
Trashcan Rock lies about 10' from the parking area. It's east face faces the main road.
Weather station 9.0 miles from here
26 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Trashcan Rock
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Trashcan Rock:
Featured Route For Trashcan Rock
Eyestrain 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a California
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Trashcan Rock - West Face
This was a fun easy route. Start up a crack splitting a rib just right of the Eyesore chimney. Place your 3.5 friend in a crack to your left. Step on a little dike around the corner with a big crack. The move is easy but a fall here may land you on a slabby ledge. If nervous you may want to place your number 4 friend in the crack (slightly blind) before turning the corner. Follow this crack up to the cap rock. This is a good belay spot to watch your second. Otherwise step over the cap roc...[more] Browse More Classics in California
By Steve Powell
Dec 11, 2002
I happen to think that Quail Springs is a good area for both the beginning climber, and the beginning lead climber. there are also some nice moderate routes to 5.12 that are on the side facing the road.
By Adam Stackhouse
Feb 8, 2010
This is a very family friendly area, offering picnic tables, bbqs, restrooms and zero approach; all just steps from the car.
By Patrick Dyson
May 4, 2010
Watch for the tricky pro to setup the anchors on top (no bolts/chains that I saw). Take some big gear & moderately long slings.
By peter p
Oct 31, 2016
Many beginners' first encounter with J-Tree. I always feel bad to say "you just did a 5.3 and it required a hand jam". The climbs can be more weird than hard and of course they are very run out AND with no simple anchors. Probably not the best beginner place in the park.
Great for free soloing -- and in fact many locals do after work.