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Trash Kicker 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Trent Baker
Season: east facing
Page Views: 117
Submitted By: bheller on Jul 19, 2015

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Real Live Rockclimbing 

Oh my heck! Freak!..... Holy Shit!- Bring a pocket full of quarters, because one look at this proud line could inspire a climber with enough enthusiastic cuss words to fill a swear jar. This line is one of AF's proudest and most intimidating routes- it climbs an obvious and imposing line straight out the weakness of the huge tiered roofs towering over the left side of the Forgotten Trails crag. Trash Kicker sports an intermediate anchor at around 80 feet or so, but do yourself a favor and "Take It To The Mother-Fetchin' Top!"
The first half begins on sharp pockets and crimps for the first 3 bolts, and then begins a wonderful wandering path up great rock with technical movement- the holds always appearing right when you need them. The small left facing off-set feature just before the intermediate anchor is especially fun. (first pitch alone- 12a/b) Continue past the intermediate anchor and use 24" slings on the next two bolts to manage rope drag. Where the long slings are needed the route sneaks through a shattered band of choss, but it has been reasonably cleaned and seems pretty safe at this point- regardless, don't even thing about letting your partner belay without a helmet and be aware the corner will funnel any falling rock right into the belay stance. After crossing the choss, the rock turns hard and clean once again and a difficult boulder problem guards the entrance into the steeps above. With perfect body position and beta I found the crux to be V5 or perhaps V6- the solution was an exposed and committing dyno that can take a while to figure out. After establishing above the crux, key rests are found on a few sinker holds behind hollow-sounding flakes- these seem solid enough, but be gentle! Again caution is advised for all below! (These would certainly kill if they ripped off and bombed a lounging spectator.) One more little hard sequence leads to horizontal rails that offer hero jugs between big reaches for the final muscle-up in what may be the steepest and most outrageous place in all of American Fork Canyon!

Location 

This route is the left most climb on Forgotten Trails "Main Wall"- immediately to the right of the obvious ramp/corner feature. The climbing starts from the ramp and continues up the right wall and eventually out the gi-normous tiered roof. The "Main-Wall" is where the approach trail to the crag first deposits you.

Protection 

Helmet for your Belayer! 17 bolts to chain anchors. Quickdraws, long draw on the 3rd bolt(placed strangely out of line with the climbing), two 24" slings for the first two bolts above the intermediate anchor. The upper half of the route is currently fixed with decent draws and slings. Chain anchors over the big roof in the angular notch. I know it doesn't seem like its possible looking up, but a 70m rope will safely lower the climber all the way from the anchors!


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By JimG
Jul 19, 2015

Your description lists Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 35'. Seventeen bolts in 35 feet seems like a bit much. Maybe that should be changed to 35M. Sounds great; how good is the climbing just going to the first set of anchors, for us old and weak folks.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jul 19, 2015

Yes, I meant meters, not feet. The first half is a fine 12a/b.
By KevinM
Jul 20, 2015

FA is Trent Baker.