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Vampire Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A.C.E. S 
Blood Doll S 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 
Chupacabra T 
Climb-Eye-Knight S 
Crack of Desperation T 
Fear of Sunlight S 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 
Heart of the Narrows S 
Le Stat S 
Monkey's Sister S 
Monkey's Uncle S 
Pin Cushion S 
Politician, The S 
Stage Fright T 
That's Weak S,TR 
Trash It and Move On T,S 
Vampire, The T 
Wanker S 

Trash It and Move On 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, 1996
Page Views: 1,217
Submitted By: David A. Turner on Oct 1, 2002

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This route is accessed by climbing That's Weak, as are The Good, the Bad and the Jacked, and Stage Fright. If you climb all of these routes in an afternoon, you will feel good about yourself.

Climb "That's Weak" to the big ledge. Move the belay to the anchors on the right. Trash It is immediately above. Clip bolts up increasingly difficult rock to a point where placing gear is essential and the climbing most difficult (Crux). Continue more easily up a crack to a ledge and bulge which is surmounted on the right, also presenting difficulties. Lower back to the ledge and rap back to the ground. A 60 meter rope is a good idea.


Quick draws and cams through 2 1/2 inches.

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By stephen sangdahl
Oct 2, 2002

Beware of loose block on right off the ledge near the top.
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
May 31, 2008

Good, tough route. Climb edges past bolts up an increasingly difficult vertical to slightly overhanging wall. Crux involves sidepull slopers / flaring crack to the trad section (yellow alien to .75) that doesn't let off much if you're pumped.

Continue up the overhanging wall atop the ledge (3 bolts) to the hanging belay instead of bailing out right on easier ground (1 camalot).

Hard for the grade in Boulder Canyon.
By J Baldwin
May 19, 2010

First Ascent: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin - 1996.

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