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a2. The Uberfall - right
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Trapped Like a Rat 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,706
Submitted By: saxfiend on Sep 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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BETA PHOTO: Start of Trapped Like a Rat

Description 

A tough route for the grade, with two strenuous cruxes; hand-jamming skills are useful. The nice big ledge gives you a chance to catch your breath following the initial section, but get some pro in soon afterward or you'll deck on this ledge if you take a fall at the second crux.

Starting below a right-slanting crack, follow the crack up to an overhang. Pull past the overhang (crux 1) and rock up onto the big ledge. Using a knife-edge on the right, layback up to tiered overhangs; power through the overhangs (crux 2) and balance your way up to a stable stance before moving up the left-facing corner and face up to the top.

Location 

Starts just right of Harvard, almost directly across from the Uberpooper.

Protection 

Medium gear up to blue Camalot; some fixed pins. Belay/anchor tree at the top, or walk easily back to the Uberfall downclimb.


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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Oct 1, 2008

After climbing the arete, the protection for the overhanging section is abundant and easy to place.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 1, 2010

tough climb for a 5.7. Actually, for me it was more awkard than hard. It looks like it should be pretty easy, but, I found many of the moves awkard. The knife edge is a kick, it's an easy move with no pro. Once up on the fin you can plug gear. The top is deceptively harder than it looks like it should be. Great gear all the way up, other than the knife edge (gear at your feet).
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Jan 12, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The first crux is a bit harder than I expected at 5.7 but perhaps I missed something. The second half is a blast. Much better than I expected. No slings on the tree at the top anymore so its a walk off.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 6, 2013

Slings back on the tree as of 10/5/2013

No slings as of summer 2014
By Gunkiemike
May 25, 2015

A well-known sandbag of a pitch. IMO you want to be solid leading 5.8 before tackling this one.

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