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YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Ken Cook, FFA 1976
Page Views: 1,150
Submitted By: gimmesome roy on Aug 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Start as Exit Stage Left but right at the roof, take the roof crack out and move into the dihedral above. Pro in the initial crack will create rope drag, even with long slings.


Walkoff to the climbers right.


No bolts, I used an offset nut at the lip the anchors at the top prohibit toproping this climb due to where they`re placed.

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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 1, 2008

There is a rap anchor, so this climb can be TR'd. You will need a way to extend the anchor 15+' over the lip of the climb. The crack can still pinch the rope so be careful.

Thanks Mark W for the beta out there.
By rocky233
Sep 1, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is a great Trad climb. I'd even give it 4 stars by MG standards. Its damn hard and even harder for short people. Also this climb is probably the best clean aid practice climb at Mission Gorge. Great practice for leader and follower.
By gimmesome roy
From: alpine, ca
Sep 2, 2008

no problem schlocker, I still recomend the lead on this gem, just be proficient at gear leads, it takes bomber gear but it has to be at the right spots to keep the rope from getting sucked into the crack. imho this route should not be obscure, its one of the best at mg.
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Aug 28, 2012

We TR'ed this (def want to bring some static line to extend the anchor 15' or so over the lip.

Outrageous climb (although I think I'd be scared as anything trying to lead it; some of the positions in the dihedral were a bit desperate; you'd need small stuff for that and protecting the roof if you want to keep the good hands open). Fun moves to get up into the dihedral past the roof. Reminds me of wayyy harder version of Rectum Roof.
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Oct 24, 2016

I watched Too Strong Dave lead this back in the 80s. Rope got stuck in crack, so he downclimbed the entire crux to unstick it, and continued back up for the send.

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