REI Community
Trapani – San Vito Area

Select Area...
Cala Mancina 
Campo Base-Fakirella Beach 
Centrale-Pineta 
Destra-Pineta 
Garden, The 
Grotta Destra 
Sector Campeggio 
Sector El Bahira  
Torre Isulidda 
White Wall, The 

Trapani – San Vito Area Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,890'
Location: 38.1389, 12.7579 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,363
Administrators: Tim Wolfe, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on May 17, 2012
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Near Trapani is one of the most famous seaside resort of Sicily called San Vito lo Capo. Rising up from the town is Monte Monaco & Pizzo Monaco, where there is a mixture of bolted and trad multi-pitch routes between 150m to 400m long as well as single-pitch sports routes. Along the coast on the west side of San Vito Lo Capo, a new sport climbing area has recently been developed. Nearly 4km of coastal cliffs have produced hundreds of quality limestone single pitch routes mainly in the easy to mid grades (half the routes are F6b+ and below). Published in 2011 the most up to date guidebook for this area is called Sicily Rock – San Vito Sport Climbing, which is available to buy here:

climb-europe.com/RockClimbingS...

This area is perfect for combining a sun, sea and rock holiday.

The town of San Vito lo Capo (www.sanvitoweb.com) is a summer tourist town best known for it´s beach and the cous-cous festival in September, architecturally nothing to write home about but nice enough (sort of Mexico!). The advantage for climbers are the plentiful restaurants and bars, two (or more)large campsites and hundreds of villas and apartments to rent. Mostly Easter and Whitsun are low season and cheap, for example we stayed one year at at Villa Margherita in Macari (see map) at Easter for a total of €665 for four for two weeks.The best website for villas and apartments seems to be www.volcanoconsult.it. For campers there is a site to the east of the town under the large cliffs there (www.campinglapineta.it) and another next to sector Campeggio (www.elbahira.it) both with bungalows to rent and another in town which we have never used.

We strongly recommend you stay at El Bahira, the owner is happy to see climbers, it is clean and well tended, right by the cliffs and most important, they allow us to bolt their cliffs! While their website says they are not open until Easter they will happily open the bungalows by arrangement, these have one double room, two bunk beds and a pullout sofa/bed as well as shower, W.C. etc. T.V, cooking facilities and aircon. They also have large mobile homes which are ideal for two or so. Their website is elbahira.it and they speak and write English.

El Bahira is also now home to Eurocamp (a British holiday company) with a new moblie home park which means more facilities are open from Easter such as the bar and restaurant.

Most of the apartments and the camping apartments seem to assume a) its summer b) you brought loads of domestic gear! A sleeping bag or a down jacket to throw over the bed can be nice or hassle for more bedding. Generally you get sheets, pillow case and one blanket. In the kitchen it is a miniscule pan for heating milk, gigantic cauldrons for pasta and a couple of frying pans. A couple of camping pans is dead handy and a sharp knife for general preperation. And if you want more than expresso then a mug is useful!

Can get nippy evenings so a thick jacket for sitting outside in the evening by the grill is nice!

Wild camping is tolerated and the ideal spot is below sector Campeggio in a deserted campsite with trees for shade (no water) or just past Cala Mancina.

Transport.We normally have the ubiquitous HolidayAutos/AutoEurope hire car, but it is possible to go by bus from Palermo airport to Trapani and then to San Vito. (There is a direct bus but it is very infrequent). From Trapani (Birgi) airport bus to Trapani and then to San Vito, the Trapani-San Vito bus runs about 8 times a day. There is car/bike hire in San Vito and bike hire at El Bahira. In the season they also do a ferry run into town for people to go shopping etc..

Airport transfers are readily availble, see the San Vito website or ask El Bahira who can organise this.

Shopping. Best supermarket (SISA) is just after the petrol stations on the left coming into town but hard to spot, look for the trolleys outside.Closed in the afternoon but open again at 5 o´clock like all other businesses. Sell all you need including bread, meat, veg and beer.Bakers up a side street on the left as you come into the townthe town. Hard to spot sign on the main street saying "Pane di Fragranzia" (or similar). All the usual other shops, butchers etc. Guide book available in the bookshop, newsagent/tobacconist and El Bahira.

Climbing Accidents. Tel +39 3349510149. Club Alpino Italiano- Sicily, they operate the mountain rescue and are available 24hrs (English speaking).

Naturally also 118 for the police/fire etc first!

Medical Treatment. Tel 118 for the emergency services. Free medical treatment at the Guardia Medica medical centre (left at the mini roundabout coming into town). Two duty doctors with no English but do the job! Ambulance service is based here also for the main hospital at Trapani.

Weather.The best weather website seems to be ilmeteo.it in Italian but this should present no difficulties. It is extremely hot in the sunner, up to 45°C being possible as San Vito is near the Sahara but spring and autumn are ideal with day temps aroung 26°C. Around Christmas you can expect 14-18°C. You can get detailed weather statistics for any period on ilmeteo.it/portale/archivio-me.... Generally when we have visited the weather has been variable with plenty of wind from every direction, the weather seems to change every 6 hours but always o.k to climb with only one day with a few showers on both our visits at Easter and Whitsun and the rest of the time bright and sunny. Going to be hot in high summer but the cliff is west facing so shaded until 1 or 2 pm.

Eating out. Fish, cous-cous, pizza, Moretti beer!( The food in Sicily is often spicy due to the Moorish influence). Ice cream, specialities are ice cream in a sweet bun and sorbets.

For the gourmets the thing to have here is the various forms of preserved tuna, smoked and then in oil. The price is amazing!

Information provided by:
bolt-products.com/ClimbSicily....

Getting There 

There is a regular bus service to and from Trapani as well as to and from Palermo. If you are driving take the A29 Palermo – Mazara del Vallo motorway which should take you around an hour. But be aware that parking can be a nightmare, especially during weekends and throughout August.

Climbing Season

For the Italy area.

Weather station 18.4 miles from here

30 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',18],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Trapani – San Vito Area
Rock Climbing Photo: From this point of the route you move left under t...

Celestial Way of the Dead Cows 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Europe : Italy : ... : Torre Isulidda
A classic route that seems so improbable for the grade. Climb the popcorn tuffas on the right to the roof, then move left under the roof to the apex of the cave. Cross to the left wall and exit onto the headwall. A bit of rope drag so lengthen the clips through the transitions of walls.Even if this grade is beneath you, get on it and enjoy....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Trapani – San Vito Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Great rest day option, visiting the old theatre at...
Great rest day option, visiting the old theatre at...
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying near Castelluzo.
Belaying near Castelluzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Monte Monaco.
Monte Monaco.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking south from sector "The Garden".
Looking south from sector "The Garden".
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking north from the Pineta Centrale sector towa...
Looking north from the Pineta Centrale sector towa...

Comments on Trapani – San Vito Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By D. Durrant
From: Utah, USA
Jun 15, 2012
The climbing around San Vito Lo Capo seems to be made for a Mediterranean climbing holiday. About 4 kilometers of beautiful limestone crags stretch from the town of San Vito Lo Capo to Macari, with several other crags with in a few minutes drive. The crags have a beautiful view of the sea and the coastline toward Trapani. Most of the rock has a south westerly aspect (a few crags are in the shade most of the day) so expect to be climbing in the sun. Wind is a major factor in the temperatures on the wall. We visited in May and what we noticed was if there are white caps on the sea then climbing in the sun was ideal. If the water was as calm as hindu cows then we looked for the shade or climbed in the morning.
Access is very easy with approaches from 2 minutes to 30 minutes. The routes cross the spectrum of grades and many stretch a 70 meter rope.
There is a guide called "Sicily Rock" by Karsten Oelze and Harald Roker that is done quite well. I Recommend you purchase this guide before going to Sicily, we looked for other info on the routes and pretty much struck out. The book covers the areas near S.V.L.C..

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About