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Big Hunk (Southwest Face)
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Transformers 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: (TR) Ross Janke, 1998, FL: Paul Borne & Al Swanson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 729
Submitted By: Murf on Oct 30, 2011

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1) Edge, downward pull, chalk, rest 2) Edge, down...

Description 

This one starts in the same place as Midnight Dreamer, but promptly moves left via technical climbing on a ledge. The climbing then goes straight up, on thin, sharp, crimps to a small overlap. Ease your tips in the wonderfully smooth pocket, then launch through the overlap into the bullet hard patina. Trend right to a ledge, then over a final short headwall.

Still needs some cleaning, but this is easily the best route on the wall. A number of people have commented that it is reminiscent of a easy Rap Bolters are Weak.

Location 

The South Face of Big Hunk is located in the corridor between between Big and Little Hunk. Walk through the valley between Snickers - North Face and Little Hunk. Circle around SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall) to the left and continue past Little Hunk - NE Face (Left). Start from boulders under Midnight Dreamer.

Protection 

This route is sport bolted with 9 bolts, two bolt rap anchor.


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By Murf
Oct 30, 2011

The last headwall section seems forced and doesn't add to the route.
By Randy
Oct 30, 2011

9 Bolts. 3 of 5 stars.

Excellent route, but as Murf mentions, should have ended on large ledge before topping out.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 26, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The climbing is fun up the edges but part of the thrill is that they are very creaky thus making the climbing somewhat delicate. Downward pulling and choss climbing technique is a must.

Being well bolted takes most of the fear factor away but still leaves for technical difficulty. Crux may be not using the bongo flake up top or going for the anchors.

What happens when it cleans up???????? Only time will tell.
By Rolf Rybak
From: Penticton BC
Feb 15, 2014

I really liked this route, a short technical crux followed by continuous 5.10 engaging climbing. 10D seems honest.

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