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Endless Wall
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Dihedral Crack aka Red Dihedral T 
Go Down Gambling S 
Maze, The S 
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Printer Boy S 
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Wild Flower S 

Transformation 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Taylor Woodward, and Lynn Sanson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,944
Submitted By: Lynn S on Aug 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Pitch 1 Transformation

Description 

Transformation is a four pitch tour to the top of Monitor with excellent stone and engaging movement.

Pitch 1, 11+, 60 feet, 7 bolts. Thoughtful edging takes you up to an overhanging, crux section. Powerful, bouldery moves take you to a jug and a nice pull over a small roof. There are two bolts with chain/links at the anchor.

Alternative start to pitch 1, 10c. Begin on "Go Down Gambling", traversing into "Transformation" for its final 10 feet to the pitch 1 anchor.

Pitch 2, 10c, 100 feet, 10 bolts. Excellent face climbing leads up right to a steep, left-facing corner. Climb past this to a small ledge, traverse right and move up a shallow corner past two bolts to a chain anchor.

Pitch 3, 10b, 140 feet, 17 bolts. There is great movement throughout this long pitch, consistent and engaging It has a chain anchor at a nice ledge.

Pitch 4, 10a, 150 feet, 13 bolts. Continued excellent incuts and sidepulls lead upward to some sweet underclinging, to laybacking, to pulling over a small roof action. After the roof, continue past a couple more bolts finally belaying from a tree near the summit. I highly recommend extending your anchor down from the tree to belay up your partner.

Walk off to the east.

Location 

Start just left of Go Down Gambling.

Protection 

Bolts, bolts, and more bolts. Bring 17 draws and shoes to walk off with. There are fixed anchors atop pitches 1, 2, and 3.


Photos of Transformation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Emil Brehm pulling the roof on the 4th pitch. Don&...
Emil Brehm pulling the roof on the 4th pitch. Don&...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob, Firing pitch 2 of "Transformation".
Rob, Firing pitch 2 of "Transformation".
Rock Climbing Photo: Clay on pitch 2.
Clay on pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shallow corner approaching the top of P2.
Shallow corner approaching the top of P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Taylor on P3!
Taylor on P3!
Rock Climbing Photo: Lynn on pitch 3.
Lynn on pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1, bolts shown in red.  Anchor for Go Down G...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1, bolts shown in red. Anchor for Go Down G...

Comments on Transformation Add Comment
Show which comments
By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2013

Way to get'r done, you guys! And way to stretch those pitches out! I look forward to climbing this new line.... I've now put up 5 new multi-pitch routes to the left of "Slings and Arrows".... Check 'em out....
By nate post
From: Silverthorne
Jun 7, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Just climbed the first pitch. I had no idea what it was when I lead it. I thought it was going to be easier than it was, and when I got to the crux, I just did not have my game face on and blew the onsight. Still a little bit chossy up top in spots. Yet another climb worth doing on Monitor Rock. I will be back to do all the pitches in the near future.
By Clay McGann
Jun 8, 2015

Really good route. Did the Go Down Gambling start. 4 thoughtful, fun pitches to the top of Monitor. Consistently cruxy moves on the first 2 pitches then fun movement on better holds the last 2 pitches. Cranking through the roof on the last pitch on huge holds is a great finish.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 25, 2015

Awesome route. There may actually be 17 bolts on the 3rd pitch, that or we miscounted our draws or something. So, carrying an extra draw or two is never a bad idea. After topping out, we rapped Dazed and Confused with a single 80m and just barely made it (comment on that route page).
By nicolas blair
Sep 19, 2016

Bring 2 ropes, unless you plan on walking off (which is way less fun than rappelling). Once I topped out, I rappelled from a medium-sized tree at the summit down to pitch 4 ledge. 2-rope rappel to pitch 3 ledge. 2-rope rappel to the ground.

The best part of this climb is how sustained it is the whole way through. There are not a lot of rest spots, the roof on pitch 4 is properly exposed (but well bolted), and pitch 2 is an absolute beauty.
By Amos Whiting
From: Basalt, Colorado
Sep 27, 2016

Excellent route on perfect rock! We linked P1 and 2 together and did it in three pitches after starting with "Melt Down". So great to be doing these long Monitor routes with just a set of draws and or a single set.

The first pitch is a bit out of character with the rest of the route, but it was short and well-bolted.

Nice work, boys.