REI Community
Gotham City
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bat Angel  S 
Boy Wonder S 
Double Flipper S 
Dr. Evil S 
Flex Your Head S 
Grindrite S 
In the Pink T 
Joker's Acid Bath S 
Kingsnake S 
Machine Gun Jumblies S 
Mr. Freeze T,S 
Penguin, The S 
Poison Ivy S 
Riddler S 
She's A Man, Man S 
Superfly S 
Tall Dollar S 
Transflexual S 
WollY bugger S 

Transflexual 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Vic Lawson
New Route: Yes
Season: not hot
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Victor Lawson on Sep 25, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Extremely clean, semi-squeeze job. Big moves characterize this route. Very "bouldery" but not steep. Thin edges that lie far away from eachother with some tricky footwork. Crux at midway...set your feet high, and stab for a shallow dish. Clip first bolt of Flex Your Head (or not, easy to skip or unclip), then move left to big jug that propels you onto a blank looking face. 5 more bolts gets you through the crux, where you move right and join Flex Your Head for 3 or 4 more bolts (you can easily skip the first bolt you encounter after joining Flex because you are already over it anyway...) and the anchors. Really fun hard climbing.

Location 

Between "She's a Man, Man" and "Flex Your Head" (hence: "Transflexual.") VERY easy to toprope from "Flex Your Head"

Protection 

8 or 10 bolts (you can skip two of them) and mussy hook/cold shut anchors (same as Flex Your Head anchors.) If you elect to clip bolts 1 and 7 longer draws would be nice.


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By Tim Steele
From: Bishop, CA.
Sep 27, 2010

Great addition Vic. Destined to be classic!
By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 28, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

It's a lot less of a squeeze-job than it looks. It shares the beginning but then climbs completely independently of Flex your Head until joining it at a logical point. The climbing on it is great as is the rock. I hate split grades so given the choice, I would go with 12c over 12b. Of course I'm short and that may have something to do with it. Certainly harder than most of the 12b's down there. Thanks for putting it up, Vic.
By Victor Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Nov 9, 2010

Thanks Tom! Monday is local's day...

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