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Workshop Orgy (variation of Atlantis) T 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Micheal Hartrich, Jeff Phesant, mid 70's
Page Views: 3,161
Submitted By: burlap submariner on Nov 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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I found .3's and .4's protected the crux well, but...


start in the same flake system as inferno and move up and left at a ledge aiming for a thin finger crack. Jam the crack until its end and step left on to a small corner with a thin crack. protect, step up and commit to 5.10 moves over a bulge to easier ground to the trees.


starts directly to the left of the second pitch handcrack on inferno on the ledge above the tranquility slab (cold day in hell, hotter than hell). Rappel from trees on summit.


micro cams-.5-#3 cams, nuts and brassies.

Photos of Tranquility Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy finishing up the money pitch
Jeremy finishing up the money pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 of Tranquility.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 of Tranquility.

Comments on Tranquility Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Sep 9, 2017

I'm an idiot and jumped on this today when I meant to jump on Inferno. I bailed off two nuts about halfway up.

I don't deserve to get them back but if you're feeling generous I live in Concord.

For what it's worth, this is a beautiful finger crack.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Nov 22, 2009

I was thinking of adding this one as it makes a great link up with Cold Day or Hotter then Hell, but I hadn't done the whole route. Has any one else done the whole route or just this pitch? Is that all that's done now a days?
From: Gilmanton, NH
Nov 23, 2009

I know the original first pitch climbs a wandering, not-so protection friendly 5.7 (ledgefall potential) line in the space between HTH and Cold Day in Hell. This also is where the most common decent route for the South Buttress falls....which is why it's often avoided.
Also, it's possible to climb the last pitch of inferno instead of the heady .10c last pitch of tranquility...which seems to be the most popular option.
By burlap submariner
Feb 24, 2010

If you dont do the headwall section of tranquility and escape right into inferno its like 9+/10a, the headwall is part of the route to the top of the cliff.
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Sep 26, 2013

i linked the lower pitches of tranquility to inferno the other day. basically went up to the first bolt of Hotter than Hell and worked left to a block with a 5" crack. layback this into a 20' left facing corner that takes good gear. another nice layback leads to a small ledge and a 20' traverse (right) to a finger crack up through a V slot and a belay directly underneath Inferno money pitch. some PG climbing with the above mentioned ledge fall potential. but a fun couple pitches.
By Eric Chabot
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 20, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Awesome route! Must do at the grade. Well protected, perfect fingerlocks. For full value, jam in some small cams (c3s) and crank the awesome direct finish through the bulge at the top on (mostly) positive holds.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Jul 12, 2014

Great pitch!!
By Jeff Booth
From: Groton, MA
Jun 18, 2015

I agree with Baldy about the original first pitch that crosses the HtH line ..... which I think the Handren book calls the Tranquility Crack graded at 5.7. The crack runs dry on the route and while the continued face climbing is moderate, there is no pro for 30 feet when the last piece is 29 feet above the belay ledge. So .... I think that section is 5.5-5.6X
By Russ Keane
Oct 26, 2015

Finger crack pitch is the best kept secret in North Conway ...... Really really fun, superb and interesting..... And yes I would say 5.9.

The top out is really tricky and a bit scary, slightly odd, maybe not worth the time? It's about 10.b
By jackkelly00
From: new hampshire
Jun 25, 2017

+1 on Jeff booths comments regarding the runout on original p1.

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