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Unsorted Routes:

Tranny Trouble 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Carl Bullock
New Route: Yes
Season: Ball Sweat Hot
Page Views: 872
Submitted By: evan miller on Sep 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Steep ringlocks to tight hands. Lay back to a rest and go for it just like hot Carl did on the way rad first ascension. He drilled the bolts and everything like a real old school climber with socks on.

Location 

far right end of 4x4 wall - tight hands to slab to steep, splittah pahpal camalots. 60 or so feet

Protection 

two purple cams, two green cams, three red cams, two golds and one blue cam, perhaps a fingers piece or three for the top (cams = camalots)


Comments on Tranny Trouble Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Sep 9, 2010

cams=camalots...thanks i was wondering about that the last 20 yrs.!
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Sep 19, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

.3 Camalot for the top.
By slim
Administrator
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

crux is not stepping on the rope during the crux. interesting, fun route.
By J. Hickok
Oct 5, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Agree with slim about crux being not stepping on rope. Crux harder for small fingers of course, but it's a short section.
By Johnny Y
From: California
Oct 12, 2015

Webbing at anchor not in good shape, one has an obvious tear through a hanger. Consider bringing some webbing next time up there.

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