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Training hand and finger jams, without a crack
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Feb 26, 2016
I would like to train hand and finger jams, while working in a remote location, where I don't have access to cracks, and I cannot build/bring a full-scale "crack machine". I would appreciate any advice on either purchasing a commercially available product or building a DIY training aid.

I have access to a conventional gym, and I can bring anything that will fit in a suitcase. I currently have a set or rock rings.

My initial thought is to get two pieces of plywood (large enough to fit two hand jams) and 4 bolts (with nuts and spacers) to create adjustable spacing between the two pieces of plywood. I would then use some cord to hang the contraption from pull-up bars, and do dead hangs off the jams.
Karl Henize
Joined Aug 1, 2013
271 points
Feb 26, 2016
I'm making some wild guesses based on the Texas part of your profile. You're working on an oil rig a long way from climbing?

Am I close?

I don't think any training with whatever temporary housing you've got is going to make any difference. Just get as wicked strong as you can and see if you can manage days/weeks off in crack climbing areas.

Sometimes brick buildings are built close enough to each other to hand jam but this is rare.

Good luck.
From Colorado
Joined Oct 29, 2012
43 points
Feb 26, 2016
Anything might be better than nothing. A couple pieces of plywood (adjustable) will let you "figure out" the best way to use your hands - fingers to fit the various widths you will encounter. Make your "crack machine" so that you can hang weights below it - and then lift the thing set at all the different sizes you can make. Real thing - not hardly - but I think it will have more value than your other options - which seem to be none :). Chris Rice
Joined Jan 11, 2013
45 points
Feb 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...

This sounds like the best you're going to get. You're not going to be able to truly practice crack climbing, but it's decent for practicing various jams and is super adjustable/portable.
Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
157 points
Feb 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Jurassic Park
Are you asking how you can learn/practice jamming technique, or how you can condition yourself to be in prime crack climbing shape?
I feel like these are two different things.
From Cambridge, MA
Joined Sep 20, 2011
75 points

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