Training for Offwidths/Chimneys in North Carolina
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I'm headed to Yosemite soon and want to get some practice in. Other than that pitch high on Glass Menagerie, any ideas or suggestions? |
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The only thing I've done like that is P2 of Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald. But it's a pretty wide slot. |
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mountainproject.com/v/the-s…
mountainproject.com/v/cater… mountainproject.com/v/capt-… mountainproject.com/v/the-o… All of those have at least some wide crack. FWIW, if you pull on gear on Open Book through the opening crux, the rest of the route goes at about .10a |
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there is an offwidth at the glass that is just around the corner from B-52...dont remember what it is called and i havent climbed it. Dum Dee Dum Dum may be an all out good route to try. P1 is good crack with a wide flared section, and P2 has a wideish section in it. Pepper Poop Tube on the Hidden wall of LGO is a legit offwidth/chimeny...i dont have gear for it so havent climbed it. |
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If you are looking for wide stuff, check out Kosmonauts and Kennedy Space Port at Test pilots. I also recommend Captain Crunch. It has a variety of crack styles that will keep you thinking for the entire route. Also the first pitch of Built to Tilt has a nice chimney in it. |
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Hypocrite's Corner on the Dillard Canyon side of LAurel Knob. |
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Lots of good suggestions so far. I can give +1 from experience or hearsay on just about all of them. |
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There are a lot of great cracks at another cliff near the Bald, but it has access issues right now. Most of the good roped lines were covered, but check out Silver Platter in the boulder field below the Cereal Wall. Good V2 that has a few arm bars and a lot of heel-toe camming. Caterpillar at Crowder's looks good, but I have never done it. The Seal has a short squeeze section. The Odyssey has a short off-width section as well. Fat Dog is super easy thigh jamming. |
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Thanks guys. |
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It's a crack hang board with adjustable sizes |
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Hey Scott, if you're coming from the triangle I'd recommend going to the new and climbing offwidth cracks there. Much better training in my opinion, and probably as close as a lot of stuff in WNC. |
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TomCaldwell wrote: Caterpillar at Crowder's looks good, but I have never done it.Caterpillar is good. A bit more awkward than Fruit Loops, but similar. |
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nbrown wrote:Hey Scott, if you're coming from the triangle I'd recommend going to the new and climbing offwidth cracks there. Much better training in my opinion, and probably as close as a lot of stuff in WNC.Good to know, thanks. I'll check it out. I'm in Chapel Hill. |