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i. Train in Vain Sector
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Demon In My Semen S 
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Eight ... No. Ten! S 
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Train in Vain S 
Train In Vain Direct Start S 

Train in Vain 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eric Horst
Season: Fall seems to be best
Page Views: 559
Submitted By: Jon Clark on Apr 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Perform an athletic sequence (12a) through the first bolt to an okay stance and clip the second bolt. Climb right and up through a powerful boulder problem and clip the third bolt (which can be difficult to clip). Crux is a bit reachy. Pump past two more bolts to the anchor.

I'd recommend stick clipping the first bolt as the climbing is relatively hard right off the bat.

The name likely arises from the fact that the climb is usually too wet to climb when the rest of the crag is relatively dry. Even in the best of conditions I've found some holds in the crux to be damp.


The steep overhanging wall a bit left of The Sighting


5 bolts, 2 bolt LO

Comments on Train in Vain Add Comment
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By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
Jun 16, 2013

I think it took me longer to figure out the beta for clipping the first bolt than doing the rest of the moves up higher.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jul 12, 2013

First ascent by Eric Horst.
By Climberdude
From: Kraley
Dec 11, 2014
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

More likely has to do with "the Clash". Apparently, first ascent parties enjoyed them and the "Chili Peppers" and "Mental as anything". Agree to being wet often though.

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