REI Community
7-Melchsee
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(to be deleted) TR 
Central - Alcove TR 
Central - Right Corner TR 
Shelves - Wander Left TR 
Shelves - Wander Right TR 
Trail Slab - Face Left S,TR 
Trail Slab - Face Right  TR 
Trail Slab - Left Corner TR 
Trail Slab - Right Corner TR 
Trail Slab - Right Gully TR 

Trail Slab - Face Left 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Ken+Sharon Roberts + Alistair Veitch + Tara
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: kenr on Jul 30, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Melchsee : Trail Slab B. Left Corner . v2 variat...

Description 

Lots of fun moves. If looking lots of 5.0-5.3 climbing mostly on positive holds, this is the route.
. . (Cleaner than the route to the right).

. . Could also be good for climbers just getting into sport leading, since spacing of most of the bolts is fairly close. More experienced leaders will likely skip some bolts.

. . To connect to bolted sport routes going higher up to the top of the Dent d'Argentine, from the top anchor walk right (N) horizonally parallel to the top edge of the cliff to reach the standing dead tree, then follow the route "Low Connect from Melchsee" (or more difficult, "Right Connect from Melchsee").

Go roughly straight up to the top anchor, starting between right-facing corner and small buttress.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location 

The access trail for Melchsee and Miroir sectors meets the Melchsee rock at the Trail Slab just right of a small low buttress. Walk left up about 15 feet to the left side of the buttress (and right from below a right-facing corner).

- - > see on this Photo

Protection 

Top anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-chain with rappel ring.
13 intermediate bolts for leading.
. . (Two directional bolts below left and below right from top anchor to assist in Top-Roping other lines nearby).
Mid-level anchor (two bolts only, no connect, no lower-off) for Top-Roping with less Rope-stretch problem if climber falls near ground.
. . (Bolts + hangers + rappel ring for top anchor are 304 stainless. Intermediate bolts for leading and directional bolts and their hangers are all 304 stainless. Mid-level TR anchor: Both bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainless; but due to a mistake in purchasing, the lower hanger is Plated-Steel - until it gets replaced. Other anchor hardware is mostly Plated-Steel. Anchors and intermediate bolts installed 2017).

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Melchsee sector.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.


Comments on Trail Slab - Face Left Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About