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Arch of Delight (aka The Corner) T,TR 
Around the corner TR 
Athlete's Feat TR 
Blisters (aka Waterfall) T 
Class 4 Scramble T 
Crack-and-Up TR 
Falling Bodies TR 
No Gear TR 
Quartz Wall TR 
Slab to Corner TR 
Slickrock TR 
Super Slab TR 
T.B.D. T,TR 
Trail Magic  T 
Trail Magic Face TR 
Unnamed 1 TR 
UnNamed 2 TR 

Trail Magic  

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,396
Submitted By: micah richard on Jul 3, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Reaching up Trail Magic


This route climbs the crack on the left side of the upper cliff. Starts with a finger crack going through an overlap about 20 ft up. This is a really a good lead and worth doing. A blue tri cam works to protect the flaring pod like section before the thin seam part, which is the crux. You can get a micro wire somewhere in the seam before you totally commit to the thin slab move. The rest of the route is around 5.7. Good gear the whole way. Easy to set up for t.r. off trees.


Upper cliff. walk off to right, or rappel. Rap slings are gone. Beware! 60 m rope barely gets you down.


normal rack, blue? tri cam helpfull at flare.

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By A.wilk Wilk
From: Olympia, WA
Dec 11, 2012

Fun route, pulling the first bulge can be a little tricky. The crux is fun and you have to commit. Once the crack opens back up it is easier all the way to the top.

Walk off to the right down through a gully or rappel station directly to the left. (not sure on its condition now)
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R

The "thin wire" in the thin crack (crux) only fits because the placement is an old pin scar. It isn't much good. A 'brassy' works best. If you fall at the crux on lead, or a bit above, and the nut pulls (and it probably will) with rope stretch and rope slack you'll probably get pretty banged up at the overhang, hence I give this climb an "R".
By Kriss
Nov 5, 2014

I think the best climb at St. Johns. Led it many years ago when the only form of a guide to this area was a crude hand drawing made buy Sully (sp?) who worked at a small climbing shop in Newington... boy that dates me. At the time the hardest climb I had led was a Layback (5.7 at the Small Cliffs), and I had to propped it many times before then. Remember coming to the crux all too soon in the climb. Just committed to the 3 or 4 move sequence and took a deep breath once I had some pro in to protect me. Rest of the climb was just enjoyable. Am 67 now but intend on going back there and making that climb with my son in the near future.
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
May 10, 2015

Just did this again. The first overhang crux has excellent gear, once you dig the dirt out of the crack.You can get a bomber #4, or 5 stopper in right before the thin crux. Also a smaller offset right above it. It's below your feet when you pull the move, but I trusted the gear 100%. This would be a three star pitch most anywhere.

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