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Caliche (Ciales, PR)
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Trago Amargo en la Roca 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: R. Silvestrini
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Feb 17, 2014

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Description 

This route starts with desperate slopper slapping and hard clips followed by a thin crux with poor feet. The top is easier but watch out for the sharp rock.

Location 

Far right end of the wall before you turn the corner.

Protection 

Bolts to a two bolt anchor.


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By Eli Helmuth
From: Ciales, PR
May 4, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Rebolted this classic line with titanium glue-in bolts in April of 2017. The original steel bolts were in bad shape. This 80' pitch is high quality with a reachy crux at the 2nd bolt then very powerful moves to a hueco at the 5th bolt crux. Rock is not sharp on top and it's easy enough moves after the crux to the anchor. Didn't need to use a sloper on the lead and rock is bullet proof gray limestone! The tag at the bottom of this pitch identifies it as #28.

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