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The Illmob Boulder
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Tragedy of Dusk 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Sep 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Alternate beta for Tragedy of Dusk

Description 

A thin, low-angle face with an interesting high-step and balancy crux. Stand start with a high left hand crimp, and a small right hand sidepull with good feet. Pull on, bump right hand up to a good incut crimp, then use your feet on a few little nothings until you can actually free up a hand. Balance straight up over the bulge to good holds. Fun moves, more technical than powerful, but rarely climbed and the crimps are a bit sharp.

Location 

On the Illmob boulder facing the trail, this is the taller face between the Illmob Arete and the tree. Downclimb the easy slab off the back.

Protection 

Pad, maybe a spotter


Photos of Tragedy of Dusk Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting the hand-foot match...
Getting the hand-foot match...

Comments on Tragedy of Dusk Add Comment
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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 12, 2013
rating: V3 6A

Most of the holds on this, especially the better crimp up and right from the start, feel like they are going to break/rip off the wall. Not a bad problem, but the rock quality leaves a lot to be desired.
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Jun 21, 2016
rating: V3-4 6A+

Not sure when, but I'm pretty sure that both of the crimps broke a little bit since the last time I've been on this thing (like a year ago). The holds felt waaay sharper than last time, which is a shame, because it seemed like it used to be a good problem, but now you are literally mantling on a razer sharp crimp that hurts your tendons and feels like it's going to rip off the wall. I can't recommend this climb to anyone unless they like crimping knives.
By Cryptic C62
From: Boston, MA
Oct 11, 2016

I was shown this boulder today and found a sequence for this which is totally different from the description, and avoids the razor blade completely:

Start on the left-most crimp at head height. Move left hand into the shallow incuts near the arete, either as a gaston or a thumb press. High step the right foot up to the starting hold. Right hand hits the horizontal rail as another thumb press, left hand crimps a tiny one-finger nubbin on the first lip. Rock over the right foot and stand up to grab the good lip and top out.

I thought this was super fun, very committing to get to the good lip. Probably V4 beta. Does anyone think this line is distinct enough to deserve a problem of its own?
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Oct 11, 2016
rating: V3-4 6A+

Wow, that way sounds way more interesting and a lot more fun. I'll definitely have to try it that way. IMO yeah that pretty much seems like a different line, since usually it tops out more to the right in the picture you posted.